Though by far the most basic of our accommodations in Cambodia, Lazy Beach was also one of our favorites. Situated on the far side of the island of Kaoh Rong Sanloem, it's about a two-hour boat ride from Sihanoukville.
Though our bungalow didn't have electricity during the day, it did have a few interesting visitors of the arachnid and reptilian persuasions. No matter; the setting and the vibe more than made up for the lack of mod cons. Staff were friendly, helpful, and laid-back without falling into the crunchy hippy cliche. And they had great taste in music, so when we weren't exploring the little island we were lounging with a book and a beer in the bar (which also serves as reception).
The ten bungalows are steps from the beach, which is private and pristine (staff are constantly out there cleaning up trash). You can snorkel right there in the bay and see cuttlefish, giant urchins, and all kinds of colorful tropical fish. At night, phosphorescent plankton make swimming a surreal and magical experience. There's another beach a 20-minute walk across the island (if you don't stop too much to watch birds and monkeys like I did), and also a lighthouse you can hike to.
If you can forgo hot water and electricity and are looking for inexpensive lodging on an undeveloped island off the Cambodian coast, Lazy Beach is the place for you.
Bungalows are $40 a night and can accommodate up to four people. The scheduled boat costs $10 per person each way.