My friend’s mother, Teresa Barnetche, paints these astonishing retablos of gold-plated Guadalupe virgins. They’re incredibly ornate, very Mexican and beautiful. 12 Amargura 52/55-5616-2040

As told to Nathalie Jordi. This story appeared in the March/April 2010 issue. Photo by Holly Wilmeth. See all of Alfonsina Peñaloza’s favorite places in San Ángel, Mexico City.