I still don't know what drew us to it. Somehow we sensed that there was something good to be found beyond an open courtyard, and we hung around long enough to follow someone around the back of a building, through a doorway, and up some stairs, to a bright open kitchen with cheerful chefs preparing some of the most wonderful fresh dishes that would not be out of place in an upscale West Village cafe in New York. Gnocchi in a fresh tomato sauce, a garden pea soup - some of the best I've ever had. Desserts are also fresh and wonderful. Chocolate mousse was served in a jam jar, and coffee came with tiny meringues.

This city is full of surprises, and this was by far the most pleasant one we found. It was one of the best meals we had in Europe.