The siege of Sarajevo during the Bosnian War provided the enduring image of the city for many Westerners. Bullet casings from that conflict have been turned into pens and vases, symbolic souvenirs of the city’s healing. Pick one up on Kazandžiluk (Coppersmith’s Alley) in the Baščaršija quarter.

Take a look at Jeremy’s video of Sarajevo’s cafe culture. This appeared in the September/October 2011 issue.