... is still a place of magic and wonder, although you must now make more of an effort to slip free of the tourist economy.
Birthday Dinner No. 2
First stop in Bali, just off the plane, just a few minutes from the (traffic-crazed) airport: a little restaurant called ACC Minang, because our friend Caroline, who knows how much we love the spicy beef dish called rendang, says this is now the best place on the island to get it. There are two servings of it in this array: bottom left, and two bowls up from that.