If you visit Trancoso, you must schedule time to make a day trip to Praia do Espelho (Mirror Beach). Often called one of the most beautiful beaches in Brazil, it's about an hour's drive through the Valley of Buffalo. The beach is a spectacular stretch of empty white sand and the sea is made up of endless shades of blues. Be sure to have lunch at Sylvinha's. It was one of my favorite meals of my trip. Maria Sylvia Esteves Calazans Luz, one of Trancoso's original hippies, has a humble little house just across the river (you'll have to wade across).
Call ahead for a reservation because her restaurant is only open for lunch and by reservation only, plus she only serves around eight people per day. The dining room is nothing more than two picnic tables on a veranda overlooking the sea. There is no menu. Sylvinha cooks whatever she fancies, but it's always delicious. She roasted us a bass just pulled from the oven (peix olho de boi) and served sides of stir-fried vegetables, farofa, and smashed plantains. After lunch it's customary to sleep off your food coma in one of the hammocks hanging in her back yard.
For reservations call: 55/73-9985-4157
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