Hire a boat transfer out of Peniche, Portugal when available and travel 6 miles off-shore to the pristine Berlenga Islands. Then hike, kayak, snorkel and swim the day away. Pack a picnic lunch and feast on the beach. The perfect day in paradise.
A blend of neo-Gothic and art nouveau, the enchanting Livraria Lello bookshop dates to 1906 and is rumored to have inspired J.K. Rowling’s Hogwarts in Harry Potter. Rua das Carmelitas 144, 351/222-002-037 This appeared in the January/February 2012 issue. Photo by Sergio Azenha/Alamy.
At the mouth of the Douro River, the medieval city of Porto, Portugal, is undergoing an architectural renaissance. Old World icons, such as the baroque Torre dos Clérigos bell tower that helped the city earn UNESCO status in 1996, contrast with contemporary buildings by Pritzker Prize–winning architects Álvaro Siza Vieira and Eduardo Souto de Moura. New boutiques are transforming historic streets, and upscale hotels are bringing former palaces and row houses back to life. This appeared in the January/February 2012 issue. Photo by Oliver Strewe/Lonely Planet Images.
Nutty bread layered with olive oil, jam, salt and cured pig's neck were the perfect accompaniment to rich Portuguese wine and 80 year old port. When visiting wine bars let the staff select your wines ask for the stories behind them. You'll feel more connected to food and the people. (And when offered 80 year old Port always say yes!)
‘Canned Food goes Gourmet’ is the concept of this new restaurant, which was opened only three months ago in Terreiro do Paco, one of the central locations in downtown Lisbon. Some people might raise an eyebrow when they hear about canned food, but the final result is very surprising and delicious. Portugal is blessed with fish and seafood, especially sardines, and considered one of the biggest canned fish exporter in Europe, so it was just a matter of time that a restaurant like that will be opened. The menu is rich and diverse, using only Portuguese products. It offers salads, sandwiches, Tibornas (spreads on bread) all presented in a very aesthetic way, accompanied with a range selection of Portuguese wines. The restaurant was designed by one of the partners, who created a large chandelier, made out of cans. If you make reservations for dinner, you can also enjoy a live concert by a local Portuguese artist. Better make reservations ahead of time for dinner. Can the Can, Terreiro do Paço 82/83, Lisboa
Only the a local would have known to take us to Bom Jesus. While staying with a host through Airbnb, two friends and I had the opportunity to spend the day with her and explore Braga. She told us, in her broken but sufficient English, of a church that was out of the city and very beautiful. I was not convinced until seeing the sparkle in her eye to suggest it was a spot not to be missed. After waiting 20 minutes for a bus to come that then took us up a slow winding road to nearly the top of a hill, we got off and started out trek to Bom Jesus. Stairs after sets of stairs, we walked just to get to get to the position that this photograph was taken from. If turning 180-degrees at this point, you will see a vast view of Braga that continues on for more and more miles at we made our way up to the church. It was raining off and on that day keeping every living thing lush. It smelt of moss and the sounds of water, running through the inlaid fountains bordering the stairs, filled the air. Every turn up this symmetrical staircase unveiled a private garden or a set of carved initials. At the top there is a grotto filled with flowers of all colors, huge planters with sculpted shrubs, a much needed snack bar, and a view that will never be forgotten. Bom Jesus was the bomb and worth every step.
Martinho da Arcada is Lisbon's mythological oldest cafe. Thanks to a friend's recommendation, I passed through it just to experience the phenomenon and look inside. The cafe was founded in 1778! as Café do Gelo (the Ice Cafe) and mostly sold beverages and ice. After having passed through the hands of a set of different owners, in the early nineteenth century it was called the Casa da Neve (the House of Snow) and sold ice cream to the best of Lisbon’s society. Only in 1845 it received its current name after its owner at that time, Martinho Bartolomeu Rodrigues, who turned it into one of the finest and most popular cafes in the city. Its history of over two centuries is closely linked to the social, political and cultural life of Lisbon. If you come for dinner, highly recommended to make reservations. Martinho da Arcada, Praça do Comércio 3, 1100-148 Lisboa
The churches in Portugal are uniquely beautiful in a way that is is ornate but not flashy or gilded. The Manueline style of architecture used to build the St. Jeronimos Monastery was a transitional style that combined Renaissance and Gothic elements. The building is architecturally closer to Gothic style with Renaissance ornaments decorating portals, church columns and closters.
Everyone always boasts about having spanish sangria in Spain. But I have to say that the best sangria I've ever had the delight of touching upon my tongue was in Portugal. The sangria was made with red wine, brandy, and the deal breaker- champagne. It was bursting with berries: blackcurrant, blueberries, blackberries, strawberries... It was the perfect topper to a day at La Boca de Inferno ("Hell's Mouth), a bellowing chasm on the cliffside of the most western point of Europe. We enjoyed the drink in a marine-side restaurant, in the picturesque seaside city of Cascais, with it's brightly colored buildings and blue mosaic-tile floors. It was an effervescent bliss.
The Tile museum was a must see for me while in Lisbon. It's in a convent which makes it a beautiful setting. I Loved the tile work and the chapel. It was one of my favorite places to visit.
One of the places you must visit when you are in Lisbon is Belmonte Cultural Club Cafe. It is an inspiring space of Art, Books and a great coffee. I found this place by chance and I kept coming back the day after. It is next door to Palacio Belmonte, which is a place to see by itself. The most friendliest manager ever. He made me my special coffee and I became a fan
If you want to get a good impression of the historical city of Lisbon, and also see how small the city is, a must do attraction in Lisbon is to take the #28 tram, ‘elétrico 28′. This legendary tram 28 is a tourist attraction in itself. It goes all around town. Of course you can hop on and hop off whenever you want, but tickets are paid every time you take a ride.
One of the first commercial buildings in Portugal that uses two kinds of material characteristic in Europe in the second half of XIX century: iron and glass. The project was developed by the architect Emiliano Augusto de Bettencourt and it was inaugurated on the 7th October 1877. At the beginning, it was used for fresh food sale; nowadays in the central area of the market, there is a Center for Culinary Arts and at the side stores you can find different types of crafts, antiques, and also some eateries. The market is near S. Vicente de Fora Church and also Santa Engrácia Church (more known as National Pantheon). There is a small park in front with a kiosk where you can seat and enjoy the river views. Also on Tuesdays and Saturdays, the Ladra Fair takes place, just some meters from the market.
Unquestionably for me, the culinary highlight of any trip to Lisbon. You can get these little bites of creamy, custard deliciousness all over Lisbon, but only at THE cafe that created them are they called Pastéis de Belém - elsewhere they must call them Pastéis de Nata. Whether you take the bus out to Belem for the original, or stay in the city center & spend that bus time stuffing more tarts into your face, don't miss the opportunity to taste these little bites of heaven!
Portugal produces at least half of the world’s cork, harvested from its many cork oak forests. A design shop in the Bairro Alto neighborhood sells umbrellas, handbags, and kitchenware made from the recyclable material. Rua das Salgadeiras 10, 351/21-609-0231. This appeared in the May 2013 issue.
El Gordo Tapas was a wonderful place to eat before a night out in Bairro Alto, the busy, bar-laden area in Lisbon, Portugal. The tables line the stairs and cushions are available for the short wait before being seated.
When I am in New York, I love shopping in Anthropologie. It is sort of my ‘go-to’ store for design and inspiration for everything that has to do with my tiny apartment. In Lisbon I found the Portuguese equivalent in A Vida Portuguesa, an eclectic store that holds only Portuguese brands and products for the home; from hand-made olive oil soaps to home decor, shoes, pantry, pastry, vintage posters, you name it. There is also an online store, but there is nothing like visiting the store and smelling the soaps and candles.
Stay in one of the historic properties that have been converted into bed-and-breakfasts on the islands. Options include Moinho de Pedra (shown), a stone windmill on Graciosa Island, and Pico do Refúgio, a 400-year-old mansion in the shadow of Mount Pico. casasacorianas.com. Photo courtesy of Moinho de Pedra. This appeared in the March/April 2011 issue.
Set in southern Portugal’s rural Alentejo region, this five-room villa was inspired by the design of the fortified Roman farmhouses that once dotted the area. Vintage and modern furnishings (a Jean Prouvé daybed, chairs by Philippe Starck) fill the contemporary space. A zebra-skin rug and Alentejan carpets add texture to the decor. Breakfast—eggs, pastries, and homemade jam—is included with every stay. For dinner, the owners direct guests to their favorite village restaurants such as O Alpendre, which serves the famous regional dish migas (a mix of vegetables, garlic, and bread served with local black pork). Two superior rooms have huge terraces with 250-degree views of olive and cork trees, holly oaks, and the 14th-century Arraiolos castle. From $180. 351/91-119-2550. Photo by Alexander Gempeler. This appeared in the March/April 2013 issue.
One of my don't miss places in Lisbon has always been Pastéis de Belem for those little custard tarts. But on my last visit, my Lisboan friend Cristina took me to a friendly little restaurant next door called Os Jeronimos and ordered clams "bulhao pato:" steamed in white wine with garlic and parsley. At the time I wasn't a big fan of bivalves, but I trusted her judgement. They were a revelation. I started eating with a fork but Cristina and the waiter told me to eat like I was at home, picking up the shells with my fingers and sucking the meat out. The meal was so good that when the clams ran out I began cleaning out the shells with my bread; Cristina laughed and told me that maybe I was eating a little too much like I was at home! No matter--I ate every bite and haven't looked back.
Lisbon will forever remain one of my favorite places in the world. Something powerful pulled me in from the moment I stepped foot the city. My hotel overlooked the gorgeous Praca de Figueira. Here, an old man told me I must visit A Brasileira, the famous cafe where Fernando Pessoa sat and wrote his poetry. So I found my way there. And ate bacalhau. And drank vinho verde. I watched couples stroll by. It was all so romantic, I was about to write poetry myself. But I wanted more. So over the next few days I let myself go without a plan, making time for historical sites (Balem, Castle of Sao Jorge), but mostly allowing the city to take me where my senses belonged. Here are a few suggestions: FADO in Alfama-- Find "Fado Alley" and suddenly you will be in a dark bar, shoulder to shoulder with locals who await random singers to appear and resume soulful lyrics of the current tune. A VIDA PORTUGUESA-- Take a trip back to the early 20th century with iconic items including soaps, perfumes, kitchen tools, stationary, and tons more. CONFEITARIA NACIONAL-- Indulge on baked goods at this small cafe that has been family-owned for five generations. The aromas are reason enough to go. Also- fashionable ladies who redefine old age. Me in 50 years? I hope so. Obrigada, Lisboa. You have my heart. (PHOTO: bairro Alfama)
Across the street from the Cais do Sodré train station, the “river market” is Lisbon’s preeminent food bazaar. Beneath the building’s 1930s dome, vendors sell fresh seafood, meat, fruit, piri-piri peppers, and flowers. The second floor houses a cultural center where travelers can pick up crafts, port wine, and local honey. On weekends, the central stage hosts local bands. Av. 24 de Julho, 351/21-031-2600. This appeared in the May 2013 issue. Photo by João Canziani.
Set amid terraced vineyards along the banks of the Douro River, the guest rooms at the Romaneira have no phones, TVs, or cell reception. Visitors spend their days hiking the 1,000-acre property, drinking the region’s famous port wines, and enjoying picnics by the river. The all-inclusive resort’s rooms feature such comforts as clawfoot tubs, sling-back chairs, and fireplaces. Before you leave, be sure to indulge in the homemade chocolate cakes and hot cocoa in the tasting room. —Tom Colligan Maison des Rêves Romaneira. From $691. 351/254-732-432. This appeared in the September/October 2011 issue. Photo courtesy of Maison des Rêves Romaneira. See more vineyard hotels.
My first evening in Portugal, I visited Azulejos Artesanal, a tile factory in the village of Bicesse. Ruí has been painting tiles by hand for decades, and he gave me a personal tour of the facility. Whether he’s painting original new tiles made from clay that he baked in the on-site oven, or restoring 18th-century tiles from an abandoned building, Ruí is an Old World artist, patiently committed to his craft with passion and integrity. You can see the rest of the photos on my site here: http://stevecookphotography.com/rui/.
Jump off the train (40 mins ride) in Cascais from Lisbon and borrow a free bike from the stand right outside the station. Weave through the ancient cobblestone streets and ride the rolling bike path along the coast to loosen up your legs and free your spirit.
A retro-inspired shop in Porto’s city center, A Vida Portuguesa carries everyday items—handcrafted Claus Porto soaps, Couto toothpaste, Emilio Braga notebooks—displayed like museum artifacts. Rua Galeria de Paris 20, first floor, 351/222-022-105 This appeared in the January/February 2012 issue. Photo courtesy of A Vida Portuguesa.
Some might see Palacio Belmonte as one of the most veiled secrets in Lisbon and the history of the place is the story of Portugal itself. It is the oldest building of its kind in the city, the Palace was the residence of the Marques d'Atalia, Alvares Cabral and the Earls of Belmonte for over 500 years. In 1994 Fredric Coustols bought Palacio Belmonte and started a six-years restoration project to convert this beautiful space into ten luxurious suites, each different to the other. Suites that preserve the history and the beauty of the place and at the same time, equipped with modern comforts and conveniences to better accommodate the lifestyle of the sophisticated traveler. You have to meet Fredric and his wife Maria in person, in order to understand the uniqueness of the place, its style and more important, the inviting atmosphere. They are both down to earth, creative, friendly and warm people. Their personality and creativity blends well with everything in the space. While Fredric's books are in every corner in the palace, Maria's paintings decorate some of the walls.
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