The churches in Portugal are uniquely beautiful in a way that is is ornate but not flashy or gilded. The Manueline style of architecture used to build the St. Jeronimos Monastery was a transitional style that combined Renaissance and Gothic elements. The building is architecturally closer to Gothic style with Renaissance ornaments decorating portals, church columns and closters.
One of the first commercial buildings in Portugal that uses two kinds of material characteristic in Europe in the second half of XIX century: iron and glass. The project was developed by the architect Emiliano Augusto de Bettencourt and it was inaugurated on the 7th October 1877. At the beginning, it was used for fresh food sale; nowadays in the central area of the market, there is a Center for Culinary Arts and at the side stores you can find different types of crafts, antiques, and also some eateries. The market is near S. Vicente de Fora Church and also Santa Engrácia Church (more known as National Pantheon). There is a small park in front with a kiosk where you can seat and enjoy the river views. Also on Tuesdays and Saturdays, the Ladra Fair takes place, just some meters from the market.
Lisbon will forever remain one of my favorite places in the world. Something powerful pulled me in from the moment I stepped foot the city. My hotel overlooked the gorgeous Praca de Figueira. Here, an old man told me I must visit A Brasileira, the famous cafe where Fernando Pessoa sat and wrote his poetry. So I found my way there. And ate bacalhau. And drank vinho verde. I watched couples stroll by. It was all so romantic, I was about to write poetry myself. But I wanted more. So over the next few days I let myself go without a plan, making time for historical sites (Balem, Castle of Sao Jorge), but mostly allowing the city to take me where my senses belonged. Here are a few suggestions: FADO in Alfama-- Find "Fado Alley" and suddenly you will be in a dark bar, shoulder to shoulder with locals who await random singers to appear and resume soulful lyrics of the current tune. A VIDA PORTUGUESA-- Take a trip back to the early 20th century with iconic items including soaps, perfumes, kitchen tools, stationary, and tons more. CONFEITARIA NACIONAL-- Indulge on baked goods at this small cafe that has been family-owned for five generations. The aromas are reason enough to go. Also- fashionable ladies who redefine old age. Me in 50 years? I hope so. Obrigada, Lisboa. You have my heart. (PHOTO: bairro Alfama)
Across the street from the Cais do Sodré train station, the “river market” is Lisbon’s preeminent food bazaar. Beneath the building’s 1930s dome, vendors sell fresh seafood, meat, fruit, piri-piri peppers, and flowers. The second floor houses a cultural center where travelers can pick up crafts, port wine, and local honey. On weekends, the central stage hosts local bands. Av. 24 de Julho, 351/21-031-2600. This appeared in the May 2013 issue. Photo by João Canziani.
Lisbon's well worn grit takes on a magical golden beauty at night. Here, on Lisbon's main square Rossio, the Rossio train station beckons travelers to step through her horseshoe shaped doors and step into the adventure of train travel. One of the most surprising things to this traveler was the wonderful night lighting all over Lisbon. It seemed as if the daytime scruffiness of the buildings faded away, as they preened in the golden glow of nightfall. Like a beautiful woman, Lisbon becomes more lovely when bathed in the glow of romantic light.
Jerónimos Monastery, also known as the Hieronymites Monastery, or Mosteiro dos Jerónimos in Portuguese, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Lisbon. This stunning building took 100 years to build and it's no wonder once you experience the level of detail for yourself. I could have spent an entire day there, with my camera, photographing the stunning architecture. The archways surrounding the inner courtyard look like something from a fairy tale.
One of the most impressive monuments in the Lisbon area is located on the banks of the Tejo River in Belem. While it is not a UNESCO World Heritage site like its nearby neighbors Belem Tower and Jerenimos Monastery, it is a very commanding presence in this history laden area. The monument overlooks the Golden Gate replica, the 25th de Abril Bridge, and faces The huge Christo Rei Statue across the river. It is only fitting that Prince Henry the Navigator sits at the helm of this ode to Portuguese explorers and others who contributed to Portugal's Golden Age of Discovery. While you are there, make sure to stop by the Feitoria Restaurant, (located in the Altis Hotel) for a lovely glass of Portuguese wine or a delightful lunch with a view. The food is wonderful.
Founded nearly 200 years ago, Vista Alegre manufactures fine porcelain in its factory 155 miles north of Lisbon. Tour the facility to see how such pieces as the Trasso collection salad bowl are produced. Rua dos Alámos and Rua Augusto, Ílhavo, 351/234-320-628. This appeared in the May 2013 issue.
Along with the Rossio, the Praca do Comercio is one of the most popular squares in Lisbon. I actually think of it as the heart of Lisbon. The square faces the River Tagus and you can see the ferries crossing from Lisbon to Cacilhas and back. To your right, you view the April 25th Bridge and Christ statue. This square has just recently been renovated. Gone is the huge parking lot. There is no traffic except for the trolley and taxi stops at the north end near the large arch.The renovations included many small, elegant restaurants with their umbrellas on the pavement. It was great fun to sit outdoors at one of the restaurants and watch the river activities as the breezes cooled me. There is also a beer museum. Check it out for the history of Portuguese beer. Lunch is offered. The museum I thought was top rate was the Lisboa Centre. I visited the first day it was open to the public in September. This is an interactive museum. It tells the story of Lisbon. It is very well done. The film room showing the 1755 earthquake almost convinces you it's happening and you are there in the middle of the disaster. I recommend this attraction. Across from the beer museum is the TI (Tourist Information). Stop here for your Lisboa Card which gets you free rides on the Metro, trolleys, and buses. Some museums are free, some are discounted. A very good deal. I always go to this square several times on my trips in Lisbon. I really enjoy it. Don't miss it!
In 1755 on November 1st, the King and his family were at the 9:00 mass at the Carmo Cathedral with hundreds of residents of Lisbon. It was a holy day. Within minutes the ground began to shake and a devastating earthquake totally destroyed this ancient capital city. Then a tsunami swept the area and fires began. The fires lasted for three days. Thousands of Lisboans perished in the quake. While visiting Portugal my husband and I explored the remains of this Carmo church in the Bairro Alto district of Lisbon. It was difficult to imagine the demise of so many people as boulders and glass rained down on them. These ruins are now a museum that has been left as it was after the hurricane clean-up. I tried to picture this majestic 14th century Cathedral as it was before this catastrophe. We took the Santa Justa Elevador to ascend to the Bairro Alto district. The view of this cosmopolitan city from the top should not be missed We used our Lisboa Card for a 20% discount of the entry price at the Carmo and a free ride on the elevator. You can purchase a card at any Information Center. We went to the center at the bottom of the Avenida Liberdade. (The card provides free rides on Metros, buses, trolleys, and elevators, and discounts at many museums). After the museum, we had lunch at the Cervejaria de Trinidade, a 17th century monastery's brewery that is convenient to the Museum. We had delicious Portuguese fare. We thoroughly enjoyed this experience. What a great day!
The Museo do Oriente is one of the best museums I have had the fortune to visit. When you go, don’t go expecting to see the Mona Lisa or a great work by Picasso. While many of the works of art are notable, they aren’t quite that notable. But what you will find are magnificently curated collections of Asian art and artifacts on simple and modern backdrops that allow the works to shine. While I don’t normally go for religious art, the Gods of Asia exhibit showcased beautiful religious objects encompassing Taoist, Buddhist, Hindu, and Shinto traditions from Gods across all of Asia - including porcelain, jewelry, and garments.
All major cities have street entertainers who live off their dubious talents and the generosity of tourists. Lisbon is no different, except perhaps, for the sheer volume of residents and transients who make a living on their play and prey talents. Street artists congregate at every restaurant, tasca, and cafe with outdoor seating, and, like good Boy Scouts, are always prepared to entertain diners with varying degrees of success. Accordion players abound as do roaming minstrels who belt out old American songbook standards ....hoping to make a euro or two from stateside tourists. Some are very entertaining, and therefore, very successful. Others, like the unfortunate didgeridoo player, could certainly not survive on what he ekes from the crowds. To me, the most entertaining street artists were the fire twirlers, whose fiery batons would light up the night as they juggled and danced and twirled in the warm night air. Their shows were often the highlight of the evening and seemed to garner the most coveted coinage. Lisbon's street artists make their living from entertaining and can be very persistent about seeking compensation for their showmanship. A word to the wise when traveling in Lisbon. Keep LOTS of euro coins handy so you can pay the entertainers their due.... and make sure to relax and enjoy their show.
The Santa Justa Lift is a popular tourist attraction in Lisbon. Which, is why I decided to pass on my first trip to Lisbon. Recently, however, I was in Lisbon again and got an insider tip: you can actually go the back way (by an old church, ask a local and they'll know) up so you don't pay for the view, and it is quite majestic, especially when the sun is casting shadows on all of the red-roofed buildings and the Sao Jorge Castle near sunset. There is a cafe with live music when you go this back way, a perfect spot to recline at and finish off the view before returning to ground.
About 830pm at Cervejaria Ramiro and the place was packed, with a line out the door. I pushed my way inside, in a very “I’m a Jersey girl” way. The host noticed me immediately, asked how many people, and suggested it would be 10 minutes, would we like a beer. Yes, please. Once sat, a few ice cold beers were delivered, followed by a plate of thinly sliced cured pork. After, we devoured a plate of small clams with garlic and wine and the most perfect shrimp with fried garlic, delivered still sizzling in the pan. Finally, two giant prawns, sliced open, and grilled with garlic, and my belly was happy. During the meal, there was a buzz, an atmosphere to the place that was indescribable. No music played. All we heard were the patrons enjoying their dinner. We sat at long communal tables with white table cloths, close enough to interact, to smile over great food. At the end of the meal, stuffed to the brim, we did what the locals do. We ordered dessert - two steak sandwiches to finish off the meal. The sandwiches were thinly sliced, rare steak, on fresh bread, with a little spicy mustard. I was so stuffed I could, embarrassingly, only eat one half of the sandwich. I donated the remainder to a couple sitting near us. In the end, it was one of the best meals I have ever had, not merely because of the food, but it was the feeling inside of the place, and the feeling I had when I left - enlightened. I love when food makes me feel this good.
The Confeitaria Nacional, Rua do Duc 22, has served delicious biscuits and pastries in this beautiful shop since 1829. When you walk into this pastry shop on the Praca de Figueira, you will be tempted with every imaginable delicacy. The choice is very difficult so naturally, you can't make choose just one treat. You end up ( at least I did ) with two or three selections as you sit in this historic shop and sip your tea and nibble your goodies. This pastry shop is a must if you like macaroons, Napoleons, custard cups, or chocolate anything. There are many bakeries in Lisbon. Try them all.
When I arrive in Lisbon, I can hardly wait to amble down the Avenida Liberdade gazing at the unusual tiled sidewalks.These sidewalks are maintained all over Lisbon and Portugal. The labor is time consuming and is a daily job, but the beauty of these sidewalks is so unique. The designs are varied. Some depict animals, others geometric designs. The sidewalks of Lisbon are so pretty, but... be careful! Those tiles can be very slippery. I marvel at the Portuguese women who quickly navigate these sidewalks in their leather heels and don't slip and fall. Women, young and old, rush here and there. I walk very carefully in rubber bottom shoes and just hope I don't fall and break my neck. I can't figure out how they do it. When I ask, the women usually say, "What? Oh. we're used to it"! I guess....
The Rua Augusta is an area in lower Lisbon near the Praca do Comercio. The architecture is old and many of the structures are original. This is a very beautiful street. The area is a wide, mosaic tiled walkway and it is closed to traffic. At the end of the Rua Augusta is the huge and imposing Arco Triunfal that leads right into the Praca do Commercio which is the heart of Lisbon. It is also a lot of fun if you enjoy travel and shopping. There are upscale stores, mimes, small kiosks selling leather goods, jewelry, souvenirs,and sodas. This bustling street is one of the many sites on my list of "Don't miss" when I am in Lisbon. After a morning of shopping and strolling, walk over to one of the restaurants in the Praca do Comercio for lunch and a cool drink before you continue your discoveries in this ancient, cosmopolitan capital city. Perhaps you will choose the Alfama or the Rossio. Drink it all in so you can savor the memories. I am looking forward to my next visit.
Some people think it’s disgusting to eat snails…I love it!!! The snail season starts in May and goes till August, so during that period, go to a restaurant or snack bar that has snails, ask a beer (or imperial as we call it), however I don’t like beer, so I ask for a ginger ale and bread, you will need a bunch of bread, because you will want to dip in the sauce. Usually the sauce contains olive oil and oreganos, among other ingredients and also depends on the recipe of the restaurant. One of the best places to eat snails, is “O Filho do Menino Júlio dos Caracóis” – Vale Formoso de Cima Street, however doesn’t have a terrace and is not in a touristic area. You can take bus 749 (Campo Pequeno) or 794 (Oriente Station) or simply take a taxi. However, you can find snails in Lisbon centre, in restaurants and snack bars, just look for a snail drawing in the window.
Architect José Ângelo Cottinelli Telmo and sculptor Leopoldo de Almeida created this 164-foot monument of a ship for the 1940 World’s Fair. It honors Portuguese explorers from Ferdinand Magellan to Henry the Navigator, who stands at the apex. Avenida de Brasília, Belém. Photo by Shaun Egan/Getty Images. This appeared in the May 2013 issue.
The ride in this elevator is always a thrill. as you ascend to the Bairro Alto of Lisbon, you have fantastic views of the city and the river. When you exit the elevator, you can walk around to the stairwell that you climb to the top and take in the amazing view. I am sorry to say, I couldn't make the steep climb. I chickened out. When you arrive in the "High" section of Lisbon, there are many churches, some museums, restaurants, and parks. The Carmo Museum has been left in ruins since the earthquake of 1755 destroyed it ( and the entire city of Lisbon as well). You look up at the empty spaces and see the blue sky. You can imagine the granite stones crashing down on the people (Including the King and his family). The devastation must have been unbelievable. Don't miss this museum.
Incredible views from this teeney hotel, Solar Dos Mouros, in Lisbon. The personnel here are nothing short of fabulous, attentive, personable, and can provide insights into Lisbon that you haven't considered. Incredibly convenient to all attractions and just wandering.
Take the old trolley #28 up to the Alfama and exit the trolley at St. Anthony's Church. You will see the Se directly behind St. Anthony's. St. Anthony's is a Baroque church that was built in the 18th c. over the birthplace of the saint. There is a small museum next to the church. Behind the church and across the trolley tracks and the street, is the Se which is Lisbon's oldest church and the cathedral of the city. The structure is very large and of Romanesque origin dating back to the 12th c. It was built on the site of an Arab mosque after the first King of Portugal, Afonso Henriques captured the city from the Arabs. There is a museum, many tombs, and an archeological dig here. St. Anthony was baptized Fernando Martins de Bulhoes in the Se in 1195. Spend some time in the Se as it is full of history. Wander around and relive ancient history. You can almost imagine yourself in the Se centuries ago! If you are into history and/or travel adventures, take the time to add the Se to your itinerary. When you are ready to go, you can take the trolley or walk further up into the Alfama for more sightseeing discoveries. I wander the narrow streets and climb the steep steps in this ancient quarter and constantly find new and interesting places and people to talk to. Try the sardines that are grilled everywhere in the Alfama. Just follow the delicious aroma. Don't miss the Alfama and its sights.
Lisboa Story Centre If you want to know more about the Lisbon memories, since its foundation until present day, visit Lisboa Story Centre. Learn about the post earthquake (1755) and the reconstruction of the city by Marquês de Pombal, who introduces Modern City Planning and in one year Lisbon was already partially recovered. This interpretation centre takes visitors on a 60 minutes journey through space and time with an audio guide system presenting historical events and dramatic scenes. It’s located in Terreiro do Paço, you can go there by bus, tram or subway…or just walk through Augusta Street straight to the river. It’s open every day from 10 am till 8 pm (last tour at 7pm). Adult tickets cost 7€, but if you have Lisboa Card, you will benefit a 20% discount on the admission price.
I had heard that the night life of Bairro Alto was a must see and I'm glad I went. It really was a great time with delicious, refreshing Caipirinhas available at every stop. It was bustling with people, drinks and music spilling out of the small bars onto the narrow streets.
The Rossio is one of Lisbon's most beautiful squares and it is sometimes referred to as Europe's most beautiful square. The pavement is composed of the unique Portuguese tiles and the design is very unusual. The impression is of an uneven, wavy area. Yet when you are walking, the pavement is perfectly even. The effect is quite impressive, . There is a huge Baroque fountain that is lit up at night and is gorgeous. At one end is the National Theatre of Dona Maria II (1840's). The column of Pedro IV (1874) dominates the square. The side streets are filed with restaurants, hotels, the Pastelaria Suica - there since 1922, and cafes - The Art Deco Cafe Nicola,this one built on the original site opened in 1929) is a must stop where you enjoy a drink, expresso, or a great desert and watch the activity in the square. The tiny Cafe Ginjinha, Rossio is also old and traditional. Stop here at the stand up bar and try this cherry flavored liquor. Buy some flowers from the flower sellers. The kiosks have leather goods for sale. Watch the pigeons wander around. They remind you of the pigeons in Venice's St. Mark's square. The street behind the theater is the Travessa S. Antao. This is a street with many restaurants. I love the Frango Rei ( Chicken King) where the typical spit roasted chicken, french fries, and salad is served. Every time I go to Lisbon this is my first night dinner. You must include a stop at the Rossio when in Lisbon.
At the base of Rua Augusta stands Lisbon's tribute to the post 1755 earthquake reconstruction ... the Rua Augusta Arch. The mammoth arch leads to Praca do Commercio one of Lisbon's most recognizable attractions . On the square side of the arch,are statuary including one of the Marques de Pombal. Marques de Pombal is credited with rebuilding the Baixa area of Lisbon in the grid -like pattern. Rua Augusta is a pedestrian only walk lined with delightful shops and lots of tourist friendly restaurants.
Confeitaria Nacional is one of the most known Portuguese bakery in Lisbon and in Portugal. The place was founded in 1829 by Baltazar Roiz Chestnut and stayed in the family business for 5 generations. The bakery is mostly known for a special recipe known as King Cake, a recipe that was made by the founder's son in the mid 19th century. It is quite a touristic and central place in Lisbon, and has a great variety of Portuguese cakes and baked bread.
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