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Home > Europe > France > Paris
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Visit Paris, France

There are those who dream about Paris and those who devote their lives to making it a part of their lives. Six years as a local and I can say that my identity is inextricably linked to this place, one of the world's most unequivocally beautiful cities and one of its most storied. It's a hub for hedonists, a wellspring of inspiration for creatives and a haven for history buffs. Get lost, go exploring, eat until your belly hurts and do it all over again.

A Local's Guide to Paris

Collected by

Lindsey TramutaAFAR Ambassador
A Local's Guide to Paris

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Musée du Louvre

Paris
Do
Musée du Louvre, Paris, France

 

Lindsey Tramuta
AFAR Ambassador

The Louvre is at once spectacular and intimidating and for art novices, its sheer size and collection may even prove anxiety-inducing. To avoid shuffling through each corridor aimelessly, it's wise to visit armed with an intinerary or even a guide to create a tour according to what you'd most like to see. Thanks to one New York expat, there's now a third option. Daisy de Plume (yes, a pseudonym!), art fanatic and entrepreneur, launched ThatLou (Treasure Hunt at the Louvre) as a way to give purpose to touring the museum (and make it fun!). She runs a hunt open to the general public on the first Sunday of each month and several thematic hunts throughout the month. Beyond its value as a unique way to explore pieces of history, ThatLou is a great way to meet new people. Note: some tours are bilingual, others are all in French. Consult the "Menu of Hunts" for more information!

A unique way to explore The Louvre
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Musée du Louvre

Paris
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Musée du Louvre, Paris, France

 

Victoria Sterling

It would be easy to exhaust yourself in Paris with day time activities but save yourself at least one night for a night stroll around the most beautfiul of cities - the City of Light. Of course the Eiffel Tower is a must but don't miss the Louvre with the incredible jewel of Pei's pyramid lit from below. It is magical- but so are the nightime lights along the river near La Monnaie whose dome dominates the left bank at that point. Stroll a bit further and you get to see Notre Dame - go all the way past the cathedral to the back. At night the flying buttresses that support the cathedral are a dramatic photo opportunity. You can sleep when you get home. Make a memory for life with a nightime walk on an evening in Paris.

nighthawks
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Paris

Paris
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Paris, Paris, FranceAfar-thumbnail

 

Afar Magazine

by Samuel Fromartz “People can either be over-the-top romantic about Paris, or they think life is ridiculous here,” says David Lebovitz. “I try to strike a middle ground.” Lebovitz, an American, worked for 13 years in the pastry department at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, then moved to Paris to launch a second career as a writer, blogger, and occasional culinary tour guide. The author of six self-referential cookbooks, Lebovitz most recently published The Sweet Life in Paris, a collection of recipes and stories about life in his adopted city. During a day off from my tour of duty with Arnaud Delmontel (read “Time to Rise“), I wandered through Paris with Lebovitz to pick up some foodie tips. We met at Du Pain et des Idées (34 Rue Yves Toudic, 10th arrondissement, 33/(0) 1-42- 40-44-52), an artisan boulangerie founded by Christophe Vasseur, a fashion executive turned baker. For bread, Lebovitz’s other favorite boulangeries include Eric Kayser (85 Boulevard Malesherbes, 8th arrondissement, 33/(0) 1-45-22-70-30; plus other locations around Paris) and La Boulangerie par Véronique Mauclerc (83 Rue de Crimée, 19th arrondissement, 33/(0) 1-42-40-64-55). As we walked and talked, Lebovitz insisted we stop for an afternoon snack of chouquettes, palm-size cream puffs covered with sugar and baked until brown. We picked up 10 of them, studded with chocolate chips, at the pâtisserie Aux Péchés Normands (9 Rue du Faubourg du Temple, 10th arrondissement, 33/(0) 1-42-08-47-73). When I asked Lebovitz about the most pleasing pastry he’s had lately, he mentioned Alsatian kugelhopf, a semisweet confection somewhere between a cake and a bread, spiked with rum and almonds. It’s available at Vandermeersch (278 Avenue Daumesnil, 12th arrondissement, 33/(0) 1-43-47-21-66). “The only problem is that they just make them on weekends, so I have to wait all week to get one,” he said. And his favorite morning pastry? The bostock, a disk of light almond cake topped with crackly almonds, which Lebovitz picks up at Ladurée (75 Avenue des Champs-Elysées, 8th arrondissement, 33/(0) 1-40-75-08-75). Photographs by Brian Doben. This appeared in the premiere issue, 2009. Read “13 Tips for Visiting a Paris Boulangerie.”

David Lebovitz’s Sweet and Savory Tour of Paris
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Pont des Arts

Paris
Pont des Arts, Paris, France

 

Ben Cleveland

"Love Locks" on Paris' Pont des Artes with the Eiffel Tower in the background.

Love Locks on the Pont des Artes
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17 Rue Montorgueil

Paris
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17 Rue Montorgueil, Paris, France

 

Charles Powell

So, you think you know Paris? There are hundreds of memorable streets and boulevards in the City of Light. But, for my money, Rue Montorgueil is the best. It is compact, only 3 blocks long, with a Metro stop on each end. In between you have dozens of the kinds of places that symbolize Parisian culture: cafes, high end restaurants, cheese shops, chocolate shops, wine stores, patisseries, a couple of neighborhood type groceries, all topped with classic Parisian apartment buildings. And, what makes it even more unique, it is a pedestrian-only street. For my wife and I, who have always stayed in smaller hotels in years past, it was a throwback to the Paris we first saw 40 years ago. In fact, this street is just off Les Halles, where the heartbeat of Paris was once found in the colorful and vibrant market district. The old Les Halles is now gone, moved to the suburbs. But, there are a few places where the old self-contained neighborhoods still exist, and Rue Montorgueil is the finest example. You won't see many tourists with cameras here. Most are a few blocks away at the Pompidou Center or a short metro ride away at the Louvre or Notre Dame. What you will find is Stohers, the oldest Patisserie in France, where baba au rhum was first made, and eclairs are world famous. And, this is just one of many gourmet surprises. We just spent a week in an Apartment on this street, and fell in love with Paris all over again.

The Greatest Street in Paris
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Musée du Louvre

Paris
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Musée du Louvre, Paris, France

 

Adriana Y
Local Expert

One day or 15 are not enough to see all the art inside the Louvre but go anyway. Admire the beauty of the sculptures and paintings inside. Always wanted to see the Mona Lisa and Venus di Milo? Louvre will give you that chance.

Louvre, Paris
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Les Bouquinistes de Paris

Paris
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Les Bouquinistes de Paris, Paris, France

 

Lindsey Tramuta
AFAR Ambassador

If you've ever walked along the banks of the river Seine, you've probably seen long green boxes and their vendors plying souvenirs, postcards and a variety of other knick-knacks. But did you know that these Bouquinistes - all 240+ of them - are considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site? Take the time to peruse what they're offering. More than just frivolous trinkets, many of them house collector's items from vintage magazines and stamps to used books, trading cards and old photos (which make for a far more interesting postcard). Stroll the Seine and talk to the vendors - you might just find yourself walking away with a Parisian treasure you'll actually want to hang onto. (Bouquinistes are set up on the right bank from Pont Marie to Quai du Louvre and on the left bank from Quai de la Tournelle to Quai Voltaire)

A Seine-Side Treasure Hunt
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Musée du Louvre

Paris
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Musée du Louvre, Paris, France

 

Lindsey Tramuta
AFAR Ambassador

Paris is rife with some of the most magnificent spots to watch the sun dip behind the horizon and recently, I discovered that one of the most awe-inspiring among them was at the world's most visited museum. Watch as the Louvre, inside and out, is suffused with golden light and illuminates I.M Pei's glass pyramid.

Catch a Historic Sunset
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Pont des Arts

Paris
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Pont des Arts, Paris, France

 

Genevieve

Lovers from around the world symbolise their everlasting love on Paris's Pont des Arts, located just beside Notre Dame. Padlocks with the names of the lovebirds written on them are affixed to the bridge, and is a cute sight to see while in Ile de Cite, or as I did, from a cruise on the Seine

Lover's Lock Bridge
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Telescope

Paris
Drink
Telescope, Paris, France

 

Lindsey Tramuta
AFAR Ambassador

Hold forth with the French about coffee and you'll quickly understand its purpose. It's not meant to be consumed leisurely but rather serves to clean the palate after a hearty meal. They think of it as a digestif which they tend to down in one slurp. It's wincingly acrid and unpleasant, only worth ordering for the accompanying speculoos cookie or chocolate covered almond. For someone as fanatic about quality coffee as me, the java scene was dismal when I arrived 6 years ago. Things improved drastically a few years ago with a couple of roasters diving in to shake things up but it's Télescope, which opened in the spring by Nicolas Clerc and American barista David Flynn a few blocks from the Palais Royal gardens, that peddles what I think are the most expertly prepared artisanal coffee drinks in town. Their claim to fame: filtered coffee. It may look innocuous, even weak, but the strong, rich notes in each cup put the average French brew to shame. It quickly became my weekly hangout. Though the space is small, its affable owners give it heart. They know my drink - a noisette with an occasional iced coffee (filtered!) - and my vacation plans. It's the neighborhood place I always dreamed of frequenting and whether or not it's actually around the corner from you, it merits your time.

Quality Roasts and a Third Place
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Fête des Tuileries, 75001 Paris

Paris
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Fête des Tuileries, 75001 Paris, Paris, France

 

Lara Dalinsky
Local Expert

I arrived in Paris at 6:00 a.m. after a restless, overnight flight from Washington DC with the knowledge that it was still too early to check-in to my hotel room. Weary and fatigued, I left my baggage with the concierge and headed to the l'Orangerie to peacefully ease my way into the day among Monet's giant water lilies. The small museum is an urban oasis located in the Tuileries Gardens across from the Louvre. Its two oval-shaped rooms offer panoramic views of Monet's serene Nymphéas series.The paintings are a part of the structure since the artist had the panels built into the walls. The best time to visit is at opening on weekday mornings. Not only will you avoid noisy school groups, but it's a great time of day to admire the nuances of the abstract paintings changing under natural light.

Overcoming French Jet Lag
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Le Saut Du Loup

Paris
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Le Saut Du Loup, Paris, France

 

Lindsey Tramuta
AFAR Ambassador

Paris is without question one of the best picnic cities. The only challenge is finding a park or garden that allows you to sit on the grass. To keep the land looking lush and pristine, guards mill about to police picnickers sprawled on off-limits sections (though spaces aren't always well marked). Surprisingly, most of the green space in back of the Louvre/the Musée d'Arts Décoratifs - called the Jardin du Carrousel - is open to all and is one of the most sun-dappled spots in the city during the warmer months.

Picnic with a View
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Semilla

Paris
Eat
Semilla, Paris, France

 

Lindsey Tramuta
AFAR Ambassador

You'd think that having a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (a prestigious crafstman title) at the helm of a restaurant would imply steep prices but at Semilla, you're in for one of the best meals and best deals. The international influence is strong here, where Ferrandi-trained chefs serve up modern interpretations of classic French dishes in a stunning open kitchen. The crowd is mixed, the service is smooth and attentive and the bread, an important element to any meal in France, is rustic and hearty - baked fresh in the adjacent sandwich shop run by the same owners. But the most unique aspect to the menu at Semilla is the option of half-portions on a selection of dishes. It's tapas with a twist and suitable for all tastes - meat, fish or veggie. The left bank is far more interesting (and delicious) thanks to Semilla. Open 7 days a week. (Be sure to call ahead and don't miss out on the shiitake mushrooms!)

A Fresh and Affordable Bite in Paris
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Vivant

Paris
EatDrink
Vivant, Paris, FranceAfar-thumbnail

 

Meg Zimbeck
AFAR Contributor

Now you can sample the cuisine of celebrated local chefs by visiting their walk-in wine bars. Braden Perkins eases his elegant culinary style at Verjus’s downstairs bar (47 Rue de Montpensier), where groups share small plates of succulent pork belly and veggie dumplings. This fall, chef Pierre Jancou, shown, reopens Vivant (43 Rue des Petites Écuries). Next door, Vivant Cave will serve charcuterie, daily specials such as rabbit and andouillette, and natural wines. Photo by Marie Hennechart. This appeared in the October 2012 issue.

High-end Chefs Go Casual
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Hotel Le Relais Saint Germain

Paris
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Hotel Le Relais Saint Germain, Paris, FranceAfar-thumbnail

 

Meg Zimbeck
AFAR Contributor

Booking a room at Le Relais Saint-Germain, managed by the beloved chef Yves Camdeborde, is the only surefire way to score a table at his bistro next door, Le Comptoir. Each hotel room is dedicated to a prominent author who was inspired by Paris, and guests enjoy a satisfying Basque breakfast. You’re also just steps away from L’Avant Comptoir wine bar, Patrick Roger chocolates, and other Saint-Germain food pilgrimage sites. From $344. 9 Carrefour de L’Odéon, 33/(0) 1-4427-0797.

How to Score a Reservation at Le Comptoir
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Musée Du Louvre

Paris
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Musée Du Louvre, Paris, France

 

Lillian Sizemore

The new Islamic wing at the Louvre is not to be missed. Much of this collection has been in storage since the 1930s and is on view for the first time. Of special note, the fully-restored late Roman era mosaic pavements, displayed on the floor as they were meant to be seen. This is a detail showing Personification of the Wind, lifted by archaeologists in 1882 from the Church of St. Christopher, Qabr Hiram, Lebanon, dated 575 AD. We arrived late in the day and there was a long line to enter, yet it moved smoothy and we were able to enjoy the new wing for the last two hours before closing. Totally worth the 11 euro entry. The Islamic Dept. is found in the Denon Wing. The Louvre is closed Tuesday, so plan accordingly.

Wing It On Over to the Louvre
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Paris

Paris
Eat
Paris, Paris, France

 

Sivan Askayo
Local Expert

My friend, who lives in Paris, told me about this Boulangerie, Du Pain et des Idees, so in my latest visit to Paris on June, I had to go there and try out by myself. We bought cheese in a local outdoor market and then got some bread and cakes and headed for a picnic linch on one of the benches near Canal St. Martin. As I love boulangeries, don't skip this one. Highly recommended!

Du Pain et des Idees
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Louvre Palace

Paris
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Louvre Palace, Paris, France

 

Amy Bartosiak

I took an awesome night time photography class with a Discover Paris. It was a small class(only 3 people) and our local, professional photographer spent 2.5 hours with us shooting night time lights at the Louvre. Our goal was to capture it in a unique way.

Lights of the Louvre
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173 Rue Saint-Honoré

Paris
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173 Rue Saint-Honoré, Paris, France

 

Sivan Askayo
Local Expert

One of my favorite streets in Paris is the fashion-chici rue Saint-Honoré. There is a great combination of high-end fashion stores, well dressed and good looking people, well designed cafes and bistros and other unique concept stores, such as Astier de Villatte. Astier de Villatte is well known for its light weight white porcelain plates and dishes, all shown in a big wooden closet at the entrance hall of the store, alongside home perfumes, candles and other colored decorative dishes. It serves as a pilgrimage for porcelain dish lovers. The store itself is simple in its decoration, but the cracking wooden floor gives a sense of an old haunted vintage place. Astier de Vilatte, 173 rue Saint-Honoré Directions: Get off Madeleine station (line.8) and walk toward rue Saint-Honoré

Astier de Vilatte: the Spot for Porcelain Dish Lovers
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Poilane

Paris
Eat
Poilane, Paris, FranceAfar-thumbnail

 

Meg Zimbeck
AFAR Contributor

Shops and bakeries are introducing spruced-up versions of classic Parisian foods. Here are the best addresses to try traditional and eclectic takes on three iconic French treats. 1. CROISSANT The Classic: The flaky pastries from Poilâne are made with rich French butter and fired in a wood-burning oven. 8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 33/(0) 14-548-4259, poilane.com The Twist: Sadaharu Aoki sweetens his pastry layers with green tea powder. The black sesame éclair is also delicious. 35 Rue de Vaugirard, 33/(0) 14-544-4890, sadaharuaoki.com 2. BAGUETTE The Classic: Sébastien Mauvieux, who supplies President François Hollande with his daily bread, won the honors for best baguette in Paris at this year’s Grand Prix. 159 Rue Ordener, 33/(0) 14-262-7670 The Twist: Baker Gontran Cherrier uses squid ink to turn his baguette black before rolling it in sesame seeds. 22 Rue Caulaincourt, 33/(0) 14-606- 8266, gontrancherrierboulanger.com 3. MACARON The Classic: Ladurée has lured cookie enthusiasts since 1862 with traditional flavors such as chocolate and salted butter caramel. 16 Rue Royale, 33/(0) 14-260-2179, laduree.fr The Twist: Pierre Hermé surprises customers by sneaking asparagus and foie gras flavors into his creations. 72 Rue Bonaparte, 33/(0) 14-354-4777, pierreherme.comIllustration by Michael Hoeweler. This appeared in the October 2012 issue.

Paris Treats, Classic and Avant-Garde
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Paris

Paris
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Paris, Paris, France

 

uncle Louie

My wife and two friends were tired of "museums" so they mistakenly decided to go shopping while I went to the Rodin Museum alone. It was breathtaking, the flowers were all in full bloom, the art on displayed inside was rare and beautiful but the sculptures outside were displayed the way art should be seen. Here in three planes is the original design by Eiffel for the Tower, Rodin's Thinker and mid ground with the Eiffel Tower in the back round. The gardens were just perfect and I was sorry for my friends show decided to go into a department store to shop instead.

Rodin Museum Paris France
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Foto a la piramide del Louvre

Paris
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Foto a la piramide del Louvre, Paris, France

 

Shan Shan

As much as the Louvre looks great in the day time, shine or rain, it looks amazing at night as well - when all the lights are up, the fountain reflects the lights, and the pyramid looks crystal clear.

The Louvre at night - Paris
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Rue de la Colombe

Paris
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Rue de la Colombe, Paris, France

 

Shelly Morgan

My first day in Paris, I was giddy with excitement and lack of sleep. So in the early morning quiet, I stole out of my flat on I'le Saint Louis to explore the empty streets and alleys of I'le de la Cite. With a sense of awe and wonder I meandered aimlessly drinking in everything around me. When I turned the corner onto Rue de la Columbe, I was struck by this scene that typifies Paris... The restaurant worker, readying the cafe for the onslaught of patrons that would soon appear. A lone woman sipping cafe creme while deciding what treat she would chose from the carte. Outdoor tables and chairs beckoning diners to stop for awhile under the ever-present window boxes with their riotous punctuation of color. The two bicycles, a preferred Parisian transportation mode, leaning gently against the cafe, completed the perfect picture. This is the Paris I had longed to see...the quaint charm of normal Parisian life. It is a sight that is played out daily throughout all 20 arrondissements. But, on this day in September it played out only for me... And, I pinched myself to make sure I was not dreaming.

Parisian Perfection on Ile de la Cite
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Near Musee Du Louvre

Paris
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Near Musee Du Louvre, Paris, France

 

Lynne Nieman

As the sun began its decent behind the Eiffel Tower, the Paris sky turned shades of pastels: blue, pink, peach. I was walking around somewhere on the Right Bank not far from the Lourve, camera in hand. This is the best way to truly see Paris; just take a walk and wander. I noticed the lights beginning to come on. This Metro sign, all lit up with the pastel colors of the evening sky is one of my favorite images of Paris.

Metro Sign - Paris
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Pont-Neuf

Paris
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Pont-Neuf, Paris, France

 

Genevieve

Pont Neuf is the oldest bridge in Paris, contrary to it's name. (Literally, it translates to New Bridge. Neuf in modern French means nine, but in older French it also means new. Nouveau is the translation for new today). During the day, my favourite bridges in Paris are the Pont Des Arts (Lock Bridge) or the Pont Alexandre III, but at night Pont Neuf really comes into it's own. This was taken one evening in my first week in Paris this past Summer. We'd come off a cruise of the Seine and settled on a bank for a few hours, with wine that was cheaper than most water back home and still tasted amazing. Considering this experience cost me all of 49 cents (the wine), I think you'd be mad not to do it at LEAST once while you're in Paris.

Admire the view of a sparkling Pont Neuf
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Frenchie

Paris
EatDrink
Frenchie, Paris, FranceAfar-thumbnail

 

Meg Zimbeck
AFAR Contributor

Frenchie is nearly impossible to get into, but the wine bar across the street provides a taste of chef Gregory Marchand’s housemade charcuterie and pasta, and small plates such as blackened mackerel and burrata cheese with peaches. 6 Rue du Nil, 33/(0) 1-4039-9619. Photo courtesy of Parisbymouth.com

Eat Like You're at Frenchie
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Androuet

Paris
ShopEat
Androuet, Paris, FranceAfar-thumbnail

 

Meg Zimbeck
AFAR Contributor

The historic Androuet fromagerie has been sourcing and maturing exceptional cheeses since 1909. Their shop on rue Mouffetard is staffed by friendly English-speakers who will be happy to explain and vacuum-seal your selections, including the utterly charming manager Patrick who grew up on a goat farm. He wrote a book called "Allo les Chèvres!" (Good Morning Goats!) and makes his own fromage fort (strong cheese paste) on site. 134 rue Mouffetard, 33/(0)1-4587-8505. Photo courtesy of Parisbymouth.com

The Ultimate French Cheese Shop
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