Set just a short ferry ride off of the Galway coast of Ireland, the Aran Islands are one of the last outposts where Irish is the language you'll find spoken on the streets. Most of the 1,200 residents work as commercial fisherman or make sweaters which are subsequently sold to inquisitive tourists, and an intensive language school has been established on the island for native Irish people looking to regain their mother tongue. Kilronan, the town pictured, is the largest town in the Aran Islands, and it's one of the best hamlets in all of Ireland to hunker inside a dimly lit pub and watch a storm roll in off the sea.

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Gus O'Connors Pub, Doolin
We had intended to return to Galway for the night after a day trip to the Cliffs of Moher in December 2009, but were so drawn to the remote coastal beauty of the area that we spent the full day exploring. As dusk approached we began to look for a room for the night and found ourselves near Doolin. Dubious about our chances to find lodging in the small fishing village, we were very pleasantly surprised to discover the Hotel Doolin, which was welcoming (complimentary hot toddies upon arrival!), clean, and reasonably priced. The proprietor recommended we head down the lane to Gus O'Connor's Pub, and after a delicious dinner by the peat fire we stayed to drink Guinness with the locals, enjoying a Trad music session until the early morning hours.
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Bite Restaurant
Start with chorizo-stuffed squid and a Hendrick’s martini. Follow these with a pancetta-topped lobster burger with truffle-and-Parmesan fries, and you’ll know that you’ve moved well beyond traditional fish and chips. 353/(0) 1-679-7000. This appeared in the September, 2012 issue. Read Lisa Abend's "The New Dubliners."
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Kenmare, Co. Kerry
Nestled at the head of Kenmare Bay where the Roughty River flows into the sea and the Ring of Kerry meets the Ring of Beara, is the charming town of Kenmare (in Irish: An Neidín). In addition to offering a collection of delightful shops, excellent restaurants and cozy pubs hosting brilliant traditional music sessions, Kenmare is known for another attraction: Fair Day. Kenmare is one of the few remaining Irish towns that continue to honor the Fair Day tradition. The 15th of August Fair Day has been an annual event for at least two hundred years. It’s the one day each year when farmers and animal owners can bring their cattle, horses, sheep, chickens, ducks and donkeys to the town square to sell or trade them in the streets. Over time the fair has grown to include stalls where all manner of other goods and services are sold from antiques and bric-a-brac to fortune telling. Count on Fair Day to happen rain or shine and to fill the tiny town of Kenmare with a lively mixture of people, animals and activity! If you plan to go, make your reservations for accommodations and restaurants well in advance, and be sure to check out the local music scene - you'll be glad that you did. Kenmare Fair Day is held at the intersection of Henry and Main Streets. One can easily get to Kenmare from Killarney by either driving down on the N71 or by catching the 252 or 270 Bus Eirann.
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Gus O'Connor's Pub, Doolin
After a delicious dinner at Gus O'Connor's Pub in remote Doolin, Ireland we stayed to enjoy a Trad music session which held us in rapt attention. The Guinness was flowing and the craic was truly mighty; the gifted local musicians sang and played into the wee hours. Tapping feet gave way to full-on dancing, including an impromptu performance by a young employee who grabbed up a broom from behind the bar and began a rousing step routine!
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Ireland
On the Clare coast, not far from Ennis is O’Brien’s Tower built in 1835 by Sir Cornellius O’Brien to mark the highest point of the Cliffs of Moher and as some stories have it, to serve as an observation tower for Victorian tourists. The climb is stimulating for some, excruciating for others, but undoubtedly rewarding for all providing a view to the south of the mountains of Kerry, to the north Connemara, and the Aran Islands in Galway Bay west. There is a less demanding experience at the Cliffs of Moher Visitor Experience built into a lower hillside below the Cliffs where a multimedia display provides a bird’s eye view for a minimal charge of €6 with discounts for seniors and students.
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Newgrange
Newgrange, a prehistoric site, is a must see when going to Ireland. It is older than Stonehenge and the Pyramids in Egypt. It is only about an hour or so from Dublin in the Brú na Bóinne complex in the River Boyne area. No one knows exactly what it was built for, although there are some theories. The coolest thing is that on winter solstice, the light from outside comes into a hole cut above the door and lights up the inside chamber. When you tour the site, they replicate this and it is really amazing. There are also some pretty cool carvings in the stone. If you are going to Ireland, put it on your list. I've been there twice and it was no less amazing the 2nd time around!
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Chapter One
In what was once the Jameson family mansion, chef Ross Lewis specializes in Irish haute cuisine. The menu at this Michelin-starred restaurant changes seasonally. Standout dishes include cured Clare Island salmon with smoked pear, and a spiced rhubarb dessert. At the kitchen-side chef’s table, the tabletop is made of glazed volcanic rock, and guests can opt for a six-course prix fixe meal. In the main dining room, the exposed brick walls are ornamented with pieces by emerging local artists, part of the chef’s ProjectArt initiative. 353/(0) 1-873-2266. This appeared in the September, 2012 issue. Read Lisa Abend's "The New Dubliners."
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Dublin Fringe Theatre Festival
A fanciful three-week celebration of the arts, Fringe has been an annual asylum for artistic oddballs since 1994. Nearly 650 productions— theater, dance, poetry, magic, outdoor installations—enliven venues all over Dublin. Sept. 8–23, 353/(0) 1-670-6106. This appeared in the September, 2012 issue. Read Lisa Abend's "The New Dubliners."
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Celtic Whiskey Shop
A paradise of collectible and contemporary spirits awaits the serious whiskey connoisseur. The stock here includes a single malt from the tiny island of Inish Turk Beg, in handblown bottles (pictured), and an exclusive Connemara bottling aged in a sherry cask. 353/(0) 1-675-9744. This appeared in the September, 2012 issue. Read Lisa Abend's "The New Dubliners."
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Domoland Castle
Dromoland, with its towers, turrets, and suits of armor, dates back to 1014. Your room is appointed with ornate furniture, vibrant fabrics, and fairy-tale garden views. While you’re there, try your hand at the regal art of falconry. Dromoland Castle, Newmarket-on-Fergus, County Clare, 353/(0) 61-368-144. From $655. dromoland.ie. Image courtesy of Dromoland Castle. This story appeared in the July/August 2011 issue. Discover other palace hotels:Venice, ItalyRajasthan, IndiaPlaya del Carmen, MexicoMarrakech, MoroccoBejing, China
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Dublin
With its tumultuous history, the Irish often have had nothing but stories, tales and conversations to carry their legacies forward and pass on to the next generations. The magic, wonder and imagination is the gift they pass on – and evident in Ireland’s rich literary legacy. (Ireland is the only country that has three noble laureates.) We stumbled upon the National Leprechuan Museum in Dublin while walking the streets and I couldn't resist the enchantment. Think of this museum as more of an experiential exhibit and a fun photo-op place. It is the brainchild of a local Dublin architect, Tom O’Rahilly. who is obsessed with storytelling and wanted to create a fun, experiential way to experience Irish stories. And boy, did he! The museum has twelve rooms that you are free to explore, take pictures and play around in. Each room offers a very interesting perspective of dimension, color, story and play. There’s the Giant’s Causeway, the Tunnel (an important symbol in fantasy storytelling!) Life-sized furniture, Rainbow colors, Story walls & so on. It is also just a very pleasant introduction to Ireland's history and mythology.
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Queen Of Tarts
This delectable cafe offers the most delicious scones you will ever taste...in your life (from raspberry, to apple...to chocolate chip). They offer a wide variety of pastries as well as sandwiches and tea. There are 2 locations in Dublin fairly close to each other. The original restaurant is small (but so cozy), while the second location is much bigger. If you are in Dublin, be sure to stop by for breakfast or brunch. Be sure to get a scone and ask for clotted cream (which is like creamy crack). I promise you won't be disappointed.
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Dingle, Co. Kerry
Driving around the Dingle Peninsula in September was awesome. There were very few people. It was a great place to stop, get out of the car and meditate on the stunning scenery: the stormy, grey Atlantic Ocean; the rocky islands in the distance; the green of the Irish landscape. I came to a this fabulous spot and decided to photograph. The woman, lost in her own thoughts, didn't even notice me. I think that her presence makes this image so much more powerful than had there been no one there.
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Dublin, Co. Dublin
On a crisp Saturday afternoon in Dublin's Temple Bar district, I surveyed the weekly food market and its wide array of produce, prepared treats, and people. I sipped hot apple cider, bit into a chocolate hazelnut crepe, and chatted with a farmer about the already budding daffodils.
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Ha'penny Bridge
The Ha'penny Bridge, officially the Liffey Bridge, was built in 1816 over the River Liffey in Dublin, Ireland. For over 100 years it cost between half a penny and a penny and a half to cross the bridge but today the pedestrian bridge is free. I found myself crossing the aerial pathway a couple of times daily during my two week stay in Dublin from my hostel to the more happening south side of Dublin. The Temple Bar area, just south of the bridge, is the main tourist area of the city and well worth a visit but when you want true "craic (bar banter)" and a more affordable Guinness, venture further out of the Temple Bar area.
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Deserted Beach
My Irish friend, Aedín, and I were driving from Galway to Westport when suddenly she veered off the main road. "There's a great beach down this way, I think," she said to me. I was up for anything, seeing her country for the first time. We came upon one beach, "This isn't the one," she said. I thought it was beautiful, but she knew what she was looking for. Then we arrived at this beach, which I nicknamed "Aedín's Beach". We were the only ones on that beach. As my friend walked down the beach, I watched her as she got lost in the beauty of the landscape: the feel of the warm sun on our skin, the sound of the waves crashing on the shore, the smell of the salty air, the taste of salt and sand on our lips and the sight of a desolate beach against the green pasture land dotted with white sheep. I took this one shot of her. It is one of my favorites from this trip.
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Gravity Bar
When we arrived at the Gravity Bar in Dublin, I was in pretty bad shape. Not even a week before our much planned honeymoon, I had a cast taken off my leg and my broken ankle had not finished healing. It was our first day in Ireland and we were enjoying the sites using the hop on, hop off bus. We decided to visit the Guinness Storehouse, an interesting museum dedicated to the famous Irish brew. By the time we finished, my leg was very swollen and I could barely walk so we decided to head to the very top floor, home to the Gravity Bar. This bar has wonderful 360 degree views of Dublin and all the Guinness you can drink. You can even try your hand at pouring the perfect pint. The bartenders know what they're doing, and to prove it, they make shamrocks into the foam with a flourish. When I had finished my icy cold drink, I realized my ankle felt much better and I could once again navigate the cobble stoned streets of Dublin. I quickly learned that every time I had a Guinness, my ankle would feel better and soon enough, we had the locals of different pubs cheering "Guinness for strength!" when I put my order in. Guinness is a serious deal in Ireland. It is fun to start a debate amongst your new local friends as to which pub serves their favorite pint. For me, it was the Gravity Bar. The combination of having my very first non-imported Guinness along with the excitement of our honeymoon and relief of my ankle made it the perfect pint for me.
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Cliffs of Moher
The Cliffs of Moher on the west side of the Ireland is more than a natural wonder, it's something out of an old novel. Often you expect lots of green in Ireland but the raw, brooding, rocky terrain of the Cliffs of Moher are romantic and if you're lucky enough to get a clear day like we did, it may inspire your inner Heathcliff and Cathy.
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18 Parnell Square N
Sure, you can go to Paris and fall in love with the city and the books about the city. Hemingway immortalized Paris. F. Scott Fitzgerald spent time there. But so did James Joyce. JJ is still much loved in his native Ireland and along with many other Irish writers you can read and learn all about him in the Dublin Writers Museum. Other than Joyce, there is Oscar Wilde, Bram Stoker, etc. If you make it to Dublin and you don't stop by here (and visit the other literary places), you have wasted a trip!
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CrackBIRD
Deft use of social media—you can tweet for a seat and get a special deal—enabled a pop-up poultry joint to settle into long-term industrial-chic digs in 2011. Atmosphere, like the menu, is minimalist. Flavors are not. The addictive qualities of the wings, and the soy-and-garlic half or whole birds, help explain the long lines of chicken fanatics waiting to get in. This appeared in the September, 2012 issue. Read Lisa Abend's "The New Dubliners." Photo by Infomatique/Flickr.
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Dingle Peninsula
Many people pass up visiting the Dingle Peninsula in favor for the famous "Ring of Kerry" drive in Ireland. However, this beautiful place packs a big punch. The town itself has plenty to do including a beautiful harbor and an aquarium, not to mention shopping and plenty of pubs. We decided to take a rental car (yes, the driving is on the left hand side) and make the scenic loop in a day. The views are not only spectacular, but full of history. On one turn, we discovered a famine era house, on another, beehive huts that were built by monks centuries ago. There is a beach and even a nature center there to enjoy. Even though the twisty road is about a car length wide, the drive is easy. Other drivers are conscientious, and of course, everyone takes a leisurely pace to enjoy all the sights. I suggest that you take a picnic lunch with you. Not only will you avoid the high restaurant prices, but you will find a spot with a beautiful view and make a wonderful memory too.
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The Shelbourne Dublin
Irish history sets the tone throughout this red-brick Victorian’s marbled halls. The 284 rooms include the apartment where the constitution was drafted, and a tapestry by famed 20th-century Dublin painter Louis le Brocquy hangs above the fireplace in the chandeliered lobby. Doubles from $280, 353/(0) 1-663-4500. This appeared in the September, 2012 issue. Read Lisa Abend's "The New Dubliners."
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Tully Beg, Co. Galway
Connemara's jagged coastline shows the juxtaposition of vulnerability and strength at every turn. This home didn't fare well against the harsh elements, but its walls remain unyielding. The cool Atlantic winds are saturated with salt, and so are its people. Though everyone is warm and welcoming, there is a rough, bucolic side to these natives. A strong sense of live and let live exists out here. Most locals live out in the countryside, but small fishing villages, such as Tully Beg, pepper these isolated shores. Fishing, sheep herding, and peat farming are the traditional trades of this region, but tourism has certainly taken its hold as well. So long as you're entertained by nature, you will have plenty to do in Connemara. Amble down the abandoned beaches; hold your hat as you walk the cliffs; and stop in a local pub for some fresh seafood or a bowl of soup. On the road out to Tully Beg you're given a few options. Whichever roads you choose you will not be disappointed. Connemara National Park and its Twelve Bens will provide a stunning backdrop to your meanderings. You will pass by the iconic thatched cottages of Tully Cross; the beautiful Kylemore Abbey; and the quintessential shops and pubs of Clifden.
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Kinsale, Co. Cork
I was so drawn to the primary colors of these 3 boats; the 3 primary colors of light: red, blue and green. The colors were complimented by the colorful houses of Kinsale in the background. This small harbor town has great places to stay, nice shops, fabulous restaurants and some must see sites, namely the Charles Fort. But, just walking around the harbor taking in the sailboats and the fishermen working on their nets is often all I need!
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Dublin, Co. Fingal
Two years ago I planned a trip to Dublin,Ireland. Just out of no where I came with the idea to go to Dublin. I went with 5 other friends more and o m g what a Hilarious week! The first thing we noticed was that the airport very small was even compared to the one in Aruba! We step out and the first thing we wanted to do was get to get to the hotel. We stayed in Travelogde Inn 20 minutes bus drive from central Dublin. From the airport to the hotel we toked 2 buses. It was easy for us to reach it because everyone there was very helpful and friendly. The first day nobody wanted to get up early so I was pretty pissed because I was all exited to see Dublin. We went out and bought the 3 saver pass which I found very cheap and good. Because it included the hop on hop off tour, every single entry to the museums, theaters and especially the KIlmainham Gaol prison. On our way there I came up with the great idea to take a picture on a truck! At the end of the road there we few guys working So I thought Yes this is the moment. I went there and asked the old man if I could take a pic on the truck he misunderstood me! He thought I wanted to take a pic with him and the other guy. Well I must say I found my green lucky charm that day. The guy was very cute and had the most green eyes I ever see! After that we met a police man and he wanted a pic with us to! We so laugh our asses of when He tried to be HULK! The next time I will tell u more about our trip! X
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Dublin Tourism Centre
Perfect day in Dublin: Walk to Queen of Tarts on Dame street and enjoy some tea and a delicious scone at this quaint café. The tables are closer together, really playing into the ambiance of the place, one minute you will be talking to your friend and then suddenly you might meet a couple from Israel and start swapping travel stories. Take a stroll around city hall, the medieval district, and make your way over to the giant castle with a huge park to enjoy. If it's time for lunch, head over to Porter's Pub where you will find four stories of Irish charm waiting for you. Their steak sandwich and fish&chips are both to die for (the mushed peas are a local must-try but not for me). If you hang around long enough to catch the happy hour crowd you will not be disappointed. If you aren't in the mood for a pub there is the Persian Cuisine the next block over, great food! Make your way back over to Dame street to find Temple Square; this place is always busy with nightlife-you never know who you may run into. If you are tired of just wandering around, head over to Suffolk street, the giant gorgeous castle pictured here is the Dublin tourist office that has plenty of souvenirs for your trip at a great price and you can also look into the tours given daily of different things in Ireland. My friend and I ended up booking a day tour to the Cliffs of Moher because the sales rep hooked me with a story about Gallagher girls- I'm a sucker for the Irish accent ;)
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