As I hiked the trail from Vernazza to Corniglia, I came up to a point where I had this fabulous view of Vernazza where I had spent the previous night. The Cinque Terre (5 lands) was a place I had wanted to visit for a few years. Being here, looking down on this picturesque town, I felt like I was on top of the world. These 5 towns, which also include Monterosso, Riomaggiore and Manarola, are beautiful, seeming to be ready to tumble into the Ligurian Sea. There is a trail connecting the 5 towns (best way to see them) or a train for those who aren't into the walk. Most of the towns don't allow cars, but they can get crowded with tourists during the day. Stay a night...or 2 or 3...and savor one of the towns in the evening when it seems more authentic. This town, along with Monterosso, suffered severe flood damage back in October. From what I have read, they are quickly rebuilding and will be ready for travelers come spring. So don't let the flooding deter you. Go! And if you want to donate to help in the rebuilding efforts, here are some great links: http://savevernazza.com/ http://vernazzafutura.blogspot.com/ http://www.rebuildmonterosso.com/

by Samuel Fromartz “People can either be over-the-top romantic about Paris, or they think life is ridiculous here,” says David Lebovitz. “I try to strike a middle ground.” Lebovitz, an American, worked for 13 years in the pastry department at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, then moved to Paris to launch a second career as a writer, blogger, and occasional culinary tour guide. The author of six self-referential cookbooks, Lebovitz most recently published The Sweet Life in Paris, a collection of recipes and stories about life in his adopted city. During a day off from my tour of duty with Arnaud Delmontel (read “Time to Rise“), I wandered through Paris with Lebovitz to pick up some foodie tips. We met at Du Pain et des Idées (34 Rue Yves Toudic, 10th arrondissement, 33/(0) 1-42- 40-44-52), an artisan boulangerie founded by Christophe Vasseur, a fashion executive turned baker. For bread, Lebovitz’s other favorite boulangeries include Eric Kayser (85 Boulevard Malesherbes, 8th arrondissement, 33/(0) 1-45-22-70-30; plus other locations around Paris) and La Boulangerie par Véronique Mauclerc (83 Rue de Crimée, 19th arrondissement, 33/(0) 1-42-40-64-55). As we walked and talked, Lebovitz insisted we stop for an afternoon snack of chouquettes, palm-size cream puffs covered with sugar and baked until brown. We picked up 10 of them, studded with chocolate chips, at the pâtisserie Aux Péchés Normands (9 Rue du Faubourg du Temple, 10th arrondissement, 33/(0) 1-42-08-47-73). When I asked Lebovitz about the most pleasing pastry he’s had lately, he mentioned Alsatian kugelhopf, a semisweet confection somewhere between a cake and a bread, spiked with rum and almonds. It’s available at Vandermeersch (278 Avenue Daumesnil, 12th arrondissement, 33/(0) 1-43-47-21-66). “The only problem is that they just make them on weekends, so I have to wait all week to get one,” he said. And his favorite morning pastry? The bostock, a disk of light almond cake topped with crackly almonds, which Lebovitz picks up at Ladurée (75 Avenue des Champs-Elysées, 8th arrondissement, 33/(0) 1-40-75-08-75). Photographs by Brian Doben. This appeared in the premiere issue, 2009. Read “13 Tips for Visiting a Paris Boulangerie.”

Shops and bakeries are introducing spruced-up versions of classic Parisian foods. Here are the best addresses to try traditional and eclectic takes on three iconic French treats. 1. CROISSANT The Classic: The flaky pastries from Poilâne are made with rich French butter and fired in a wood-burning oven. 8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 33/(0) 14-548-4259, poilane.com The Twist: Sadaharu Aoki sweetens his pastry layers with green tea powder. The black sesame éclair is also delicious. 35 Rue de Vaugirard, 33/(0) 14-544-4890, sadaharuaoki.com 2. BAGUETTE The Classic: Sébastien Mauvieux, who supplies President François Hollande with his daily bread, won the honors for best baguette in Paris at this year’s Grand Prix. 159 Rue Ordener, 33/(0) 14-262-7670 The Twist: Baker Gontran Cherrier uses squid ink to turn his baguette black before rolling it in sesame seeds. 22 Rue Caulaincourt, 33/(0) 14-606- 8266, gontrancherrierboulanger.com 3. MACARON The Classic: Ladurée has lured cookie enthusiasts since 1862 with traditional flavors such as chocolate and salted butter caramel. 16 Rue Royale, 33/(0) 14-260-2179, laduree.fr The Twist: Pierre Hermé surprises customers by sneaking asparagus and foie gras flavors into his creations. 72 Rue Bonaparte, 33/(0) 14-354-4777, pierreherme.comIllustration by Michael Hoeweler. This appeared in the October 2012 issue.

Paris wine shops routinely host free tastings, often led by the growers who make the wine. Paris by Mouth publishes a calendar of tastings, but two shops can be depended upon to have something interesting on the weekends: Les Caves Augé and La Dernière Goutte. The latter has a mainly French clientele but, because it's run by Juan Sanchez, a Cuban-American who has been in Paris for more than 20 years, the winery prides itself in helping English-speakers discover the wonderful wines of France. Les Caves Augé, 116 Boulevard Haussmann, 33/(0) 1-4522-1697; La Dernière Goutte, 6 Rue de Bourbon le Château, 33/(0) 1-4329-1162, ladernieregoutte.net. Photo courtesy of Parisbymouth.com

Booking a room at Le Relais Saint-Germain, managed by the beloved chef Yves Camdeborde, is the only surefire way to score a table at his bistro next door, Le Comptoir. Each hotel room is dedicated to a prominent author who was inspired by Paris, and guests enjoy a satisfying Basque breakfast. You’re also just steps away from L’Avant Comptoir wine bar, Patrick Roger chocolates, and other Saint-Germain food pilgrimage sites. From $344. 9 Carrefour de L’Odéon, 33/(0) 1-4427-0797.

This summer, I spent a few days in Barcelona. Of course, any trip of mine is always highlighted by the many restaurants I visit. In Barcelona, I ate at these 6 outstanding tapas bars, each offering a different vibe and a different attitude. Bar Mut: Must try: The egg yolk carpaccio and the grilled octopus Tasca el Corral: Must try: Chorizo al diablo (flaming chorizo with agua ardiente), Manchego cheese and cider. Set del Born: Must try: Pata negra ham and the special way they prepare patatas bravas Segons Mercat: Must try: Beef filet with port wine and foie sauce Bubó: Must try: The desserts from Bubó pastry and chocolate shop next door! Tickets tapas bar: Must try: Everything! http://willtravelforfood.com/2011/08/17/tapas-bars-barcelona/

Make sure to sample some hot drinking chocolate in Barcelona. I chose a mug from Cacao Sampaka, a gourmet chocolate shop where you'll find all sorts of delightful dessert concoctions. The rich, velvety drink is nothing like American hot chocolate. It's thick, a bit spicy, and not too sweet. Dunk churros or melindros, a spongy, cake-like cookie traditional to Catalonia. http://eatrepeat.blogspot.com/2012/12/barcelona-kiosko-universal-cacao-sampaka.html

One of the best place to go for a little of everything local, or tapas-style shopping, is the Mercado de San Miguel in Madrid, Spain. They are always busy. Whether you are looking for ham or oysters, fresh fruits or desserts, coffee or wine, they have it all in a beautiful setting.

My first day in Paris, I was giddy with excitement and lack of sleep. So in the early morning quiet, I stole out of my flat on I'le Saint Louis to explore the empty streets and alleys of I'le de la Cite. With a sense of awe and wonder I meandered aimlessly drinking in everything around me. When I turned the corner onto Rue de la Columbe, I was struck by this scene that typifies Paris... The restaurant worker, readying the cafe for the onslaught of patrons that would soon appear. A lone woman sipping cafe creme while deciding what treat she would chose from the carte. Outdoor tables and chairs beckoning diners to stop for awhile under the ever-present window boxes with their riotous punctuation of color. The two bicycles, a preferred Parisian transportation mode, leaning gently against the cafe, completed the perfect picture. This is the Paris I had longed to see...the quaint charm of normal Parisian life. It is a sight that is played out daily throughout all 20 arrondissements. But, on this day in September it played out only for me... And, I pinched myself to make sure I was not dreaming.

The staff of Madrid's Chocolatería San Ginés might be a bit brisk, but they more than make up for it in taste and atmosphere. Over a century old, take a few turns off the main "calle" and follow the pink neon sign to the small elegant interior. You'll be rewarded with a steaming cup of drinking/dipping chocolate and perfectly crisp-yet-delicate churros.

This independent bookshop resembles the libraries of a bibliophile's dreams. The Edwardian exterior is beautiful and befitting of the elegant High Street, but the interior took my breath away: long oak shelves, stained glass and sky lights. Specializing in travel, Daunt Books has two floors with books, maps and atlases artfully displayed and arranged by continent. Hand-pick a book, sit, dream of your next trip...

You'd think that having a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (a prestigious crafstman title) at the helm of a restaurant would imply steep prices but at Semilla, you're in for one of the best meals and best deals. The international influence is strong here, where Ferrandi-trained chefs serve up modern interpretations of classic French dishes in a stunning open kitchen. The crowd is mixed, the service is smooth and attentive and the bread, an important element to any meal in France, is rustic and hearty - baked fresh in the adjacent sandwich shop run by the same owners. But the most unique aspect to the menu at Semilla is the option of half-portions on a selection of dishes. It's tapas with a twist and suitable for all tastes - meat, fish or veggie. The left bank is far more interesting (and delicious) thanks to Semilla. Open 7 days a week. (Be sure to call ahead and don't miss out on the shiitake mushrooms!)