There’s no denying that Dubrovnik is a gem of a city – lots of things to do and see but, if you go any time starting in May, it can also be sweltering hot. The cool blue waters of the Adriatic Sea will look ever so inviting but there are the old city walls separating you from it. So, here’s a tidbit if you want to go for a dip in the Adriatic while you’re in Dubrovnik. Be sure to bring a towel to lay on and lots of sunscreen. From the Stradun, find your way to Café Bar Buža (www.cafebuza.com). It’s tucked away on a quiet side street and not easy to spot so ask for directions. This tiny, assuming eatery has a stone terrace that fronts the sea. There are steps that lead down to the water or if you prefer, you can just jump off the lower rocks. There are a few areas that you can lay down your towel and catch some rays. Plenty of shady areas to sit under if you prefer. The café serves snacks and overpriced drinks but it’s worth it for the experience! Linger as long as you can or come back just before dusk to catch the setting sun.

Skradin
Skradinski Buk is the name given to the series of tiers of cascades and waterfalls located in Krka National Park. The water flows from the Krka River and the volume is so great that it literally thunders as it rages, full force, over the karst landscape and lush vegetation. Ponds occupy the flat parts of the tiers. We were there on a hot summer’s day so being in the park was a great way to cool off though I wished I had brought a swimsuit as swimming is allowed in certain areas. The water was crystal clear. We also happened upon a picnic area where there were many happy folks sitting under the shade of trees, eating, laughing and just having a good time. Note to self. On next trip, bring food! Size wise, Krka National Park compares to a US state park so a few hours is enough. In addition to Skradinksi Buk, there are paths that wind up through the woodland and you can catch glimpses of the cascades and waterfalls as you walk along. All in all, it’s a very pretty place and a nice change of pace from the Dalmatian Coast. The only way to get to Krka National Park is via boat and we made our way there from the dock in the town of Skradin. Boats run frequently and the ride takes about 30 minutes. Skradin itself is a charming little town so take time to enjoy a stroll through it as well.
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Buza Bar
Walking the walls of Old Town, Dubrovnik are a must for any traveler, but in the hot summer months, all that hot stone and seaside scenery can really make you thirsty. Head to the other side of the wall for a local beer, wine or cocktails at Buza Bar. Tucked into the cliffs between the sea and civilization, this improbable place is not only stunning, it's fun. Locals and visitors alike fill precariously placed tables ready to party, and if the drinks aren't enough to cool you down, it couldn't be easier to jump, dive or cannonball into the inviting Adriatic below.
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Vis
For our few days in Vis, a two-hour ferry ride from Split, we would drive our Vespa until we got to a beach—they are not hard to come by on this small island. This beach, right about in the middle of the south coast of the island, is mostly only accessible to boats. But we, boatless, scrambled down a steep cliff because it looked so perfect, and spent a few dreamy hours. We arrived on the ferry at Vis Town, walked into the tourist office and booked an apartment for a few days. Those days were spent going from beach to languid, four-hour meal, to beach again.
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Plitvice Lakes National Park
At the end of our one-month summer vacation through Europe, we had had enough of the heat and crowds of touristy cities. We longed for open space and fresh air. After an overnight stay at a nearby pension, my family and I finally arrived early morning at this long-awaited, breathtaking wonder of nature. The photos on the travel websites were real! The lakes are a stunning palette of emerald, turquoise and azure blue. Crystal clear waters show off the abundance of trout. The waterfalls, of varying heights, surprise you around the bend, and flow nonstop as if the turn-off valve had broken. Close your eyes and hear the gurgling. Butterflies with velvet blue wings flutter by. Ducks float quietly over the trout. Limestone provides a nice contrast in color and texture to moss and algae. We easily explored the connection of lakes by shuttle bus, ferry and boardwalks. These walkways allowed us to traverse the lakes, while in other areas, protect plants from foot traffic. Plitvice Lakes National Park, the largest in Croatia, has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979. Though it has attracted many tourists over the years, it is excellently maintained -- no trash lying around, swimming and fishing are forbidden, no cars allowed inside. We have been back in California for a few weeks now. Of the 8,000 photos we took on our trip, only one has been framed and sits in a prominent spot in our living room. With a glimpse of the blue-green water, I smile at the memory.
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Natura Croatica
The collection of Croatian jams, liqueurs, olive oils, and spirits at this sliver of a store in Zagreb is vast. Every item can be sampled, so be sure to ask for a taste of maraska (sour cherry) liqueur or the country’s famous Maraschino liqueur, made with the fruit and crushed pits of sour cherries. 385/1-485-5076, Read Scott Hocker's account of his spontaneous journey to Croatia.
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Istria
Istria, Croatia is "truffle country". Knowing this, I was determined to dine at the world's best truffle restaurant while there. I found it at Zigante where each dish, from the pasta to the ice cream, was embellished with delicate, exquisite black and even "king" white truffles. Now fully content, I drove along the Motovun forest-lined roads--it was a gorgeous day in early fall. Then, the true highlight: Through the trees I caught sight of two men with dogs. I hit the brakes and grabbed my camera. Furtively peering through the foliage, I witnessed real truffle hunters and their truffle-sniffing dogs foraging for Istria's treasure!
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Villa Sikaa
My mom kept urging me to go to Croatia because she had seen images of the beautiful Dalmatian coast. I resisted because Croatia was not on my travel agenda at the time. I finally caved in and I’m so glad I did because it’s a gem of a country! Most tourists flock to either Dubrovnik or Split but I wanted something a bit quieter so I chose the quaint town of Trogir as my base. Trogir is a UNESCO World Heritage site; chock full of Renaissance and Baroque buildings from the Venetian period. The old part of the town is filled with narrow cobblestone streets lined with private and commercial establishments. It’s a great place for a stroll. From Split Airport, you can take City Bus #37 for the half hour ride to Trogir. If you book a front side room at the Villa Sikaa, this is the view you get! The view is even more stunning at night when all the buildings are lit up.
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Wine Bar Basement
Wine has been made in Croatia for centuries. Explore the country’s newfound dedication to quality winemaking at the grape-focused restaurant, Bistro Karlo, and the easygoing wine bar Basement. Some grapes to look for include the white Graševina and red Plavac Mali (“Little Blueberry”). Basement Bar, Tomićeva 5, Zagreb, 385/1-483-3593, basement-bar.net; Bistro Karlo, Gundulićeva 16, Zagreb, 385/1-483-3175, bistrokarlo.com. Read Scott Hocker's account of his spontaneous journey to Croatia.
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Hvar
If Dubrovnik is the Pearl of the Adriatic then Hvar Town is Mini Pearl. It has everything to offer that Dubrovnik has but on a far smaller scale. Hvar Town is a picturesque little town located, nestled in a small bay, on the southwestern coast of Hvar Island. The heart of the town is the Pjaca (Piazza). At one end is the town's cathedral, at the other end is the bay and all around are shops, art galleries and plenty of restaurants and cafes with outdoor seating to soak in the wonderful weather. There’s even a small park, near the Pjaca that has bench seating that you can plop yourself down on and catch views of the bay and the sea beyond. Hvar Town is extremely pedestrian friendly so walk around and take in the views. To get to Hvar town takes a bit planning and effort. Wherever you are starting from, you need to take the catamaran ferry to Stari Grad which is located on the northern end of Hvar Island. We went from Split. Information on the ferry service from Split to Stari Grad can be found at http://www.jadrolinija.hr/default.aspx?lang=2. From Split, it’s a two hour ferry ride and it can be chilly sitting outside so bundle along a lightweight jacket. From Stari Grad, there’s a bus that goes to Hvar Town. Just follow the crowd to the pick up point. The thirty minute bus ride from Stari Grad to Hvar Town passes through the scenic hillsides of Hvar Island with the sparkling turquoise colored waters of the Adriatic Sea providing the backdrop.
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Dolac Market
This farmers’ market near the cathedral in Gornji Grad (Upper Town) is especially busy on Saturday mornings. It is loaded with vendor stalls, selling a variety of fresh cheeses and produce from the neighboring agricultural region Zagorje.Dolac market near Pod zidom, Zagreb. Read Scott Hocker's account of his spontaneous journey to Croatia.
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BASTIJANA d.o.o.
On the pretty island of Hvar, beneath the Bastijana Winery of Andro Tomic, lies a jewel of a wine tasting hall. The dramatic cellar is called Triclinium and has been strikingly constructed out of various types of limestone in a similar manner to Diocletian's palace in Split. A more romantic spot to sample the award-winning wines of Tomic, along with local cheeses, meats and olive oils, would be difficult to imagine.
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Island Yoga
True, the ground may be a bit uneven, the sun may be shining brightly upon you and you just may have to endure friendly boaters waiving as they sail by, BUT it's a small price to pay for the experience and breathtaking view of practicing on the rocks of Lokrum, Croatia! The island of Lokrum is a national park right off the coat of Dubrovnik, easily accessible by public ferry. Best to arrive early (& get permission from the park) so as to beat the crowds- and the sun bathers who eventually stake claim on these same rocks...and can you blame them? With a picturesque view of the dramatic Croatian coastline and the deep blue waters of the Adriatic sea, it's sure to inspire many a Sun Salutation! Namaste!
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Sea Organ/Greetings to the Sun
Although not made up of billlions and billions of stars, it is made up of millions and millions of photo cells that absorb sunlight and becomes a huge visual kaleidoscope at night. The light patterns and colors change every few seconds, making it one of the best light shows on the planet. And to top it all off, it is accompanied by the Sea Organ - an organ driven by sea water that has a deep bass sound as if whales are speaking to each other right at the sea wall. These two installations are not to be missed when in lovely Zadar. Many restaurant choices in old town make the stop even more worthwhile.
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Croatian Designers Room
The name hardly prepares you for the exquisitely cut and styled women’s clothes inside. Among the featured Croatian designers, my favorite, who goes by the name Rococo, creates Grecian-themed gowns and cocktail dresses. The Dubrovnik branch will reopen in a new location this summer. Od Puča 11, Dubrovnik. Image courtesy of Nebo. This appeared in the January/February 2013 issue.
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Old City Walls
Dubrovnik's City Walls are the longest and most complete in Europe. They also make a fascinating way to see the city. While making the circuit of the city, you can peer down on the narrow streets below, peek into secret courtyards and catch a glimpse of day-to-day life in the city. Walking along the coastal wall, you are also afforded a stunning view of the city and the rugged Croatian coast. The walk takes about 2 hours and there is little shade, so take some water and sunscreen.
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Vis
This is a traditional cooking vessel in Vis, a small island in the middle of the Adriatic, about two hours' ferry ride from Split, Croatia. The method is called "pod pekom," which means that it's slow-cooked with embers on top and underneath. Inside this vessel in particular was a lunch of monkfish, potatoes, rice, and some vegetables. We waited a good, lazy hour for the monkfish to be ready as we drank local wine and snacked on cheese and charcuterie. Over four days we sampled many of the restaurants on the island, which are mostly homes that operate as agritourismos during the summer months. We were there in June, early enough in the summer that we had the place largely to ourselves. Finding a place for lunch after one beach and before the next beach meant driving through the vineyards and looking for hand-painted signs signifying homecooked food.
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Plitvice Lakes National Park
When we left Trogir it was 80 and sunny. By the time we arrived at Plitvice, via an unexpected detour off the A-1 highway that resulted in our taking the old, winding, nail-biting route over the mountains, the day had turned chilly and was steeped in fog. We fortified ourselves with lunch and hot tea at Lička Kuća before heading out to the trails. Once we oriented ourselves and chose our route, an 8 hour trek covering nearly all the main trails, we were delighted to discover that even without the sun, the lakes and pools were beautiful shades of emerald, cobalt, and sapphire. The cascading waterfalls, tittering small streams, and the burbling of calmer water created a backdrop of sound that was truly unique, and best captured by video. The trails through the park consisted of natural wooden walkways and dirt paths that meandered along lakes, ponds, streams, and bog areas. At times, the walkways became crowded and we had to dodge and skip around clusters of slow moving people. We skipped a small portion of the walking trail for the sedate, but lovely, ferry ride across the lake, where we were content to rest a bit and gaze at the passing shoreline. After finishing our hike and taking a bus back to the parking area, we headed back to Trogir using the faster and more direct route. On the way, we stopped at Šibenik for dinner at Pelegrini where we sat outside and toasted to the incredible start of our vacation!
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Linden Tree Retreat & Ranch
On the edge of the Velebit mountain range, Linden Tree Retreat & Ranch has the soul of a hippie agrarian farm and the trappings of a casually well-appointed hotel, complete with wireless Internet. Choose to sleep in either a wood-frame apartment or a beam-supported teepee. Doubles from $75. 385/53-685-616. Read Scott Hocker's account of his spontaneous journey to Croatia.
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Robinson's
At the beachside restaurant Robinson's--a hidden gem with no electricity or running water, tucked away a nude beach on the coast of Hvar--every bite of "Squid Nona Mikra" is worth trekking for. And trek you will, as it's only reachable by an hour and twenty minute hike from the main town (or by boat from the town center, but where's the fun in that?). As the locals told us, "Walk along the sea towards Milna, past the Franciscan Monastery, past the gas station, find the goat road then walk, walk, walk, walk." Enjoy the sunshine along the coast, and follow the painted rocks that tell you you're on the right track. When you get there, cool off with an ice cold Karlovacko beer, and a dip alongside some nudists as you wait for the congenial owner to serve you up some of his wife's grandmother's recipe--squid braised with onions 'til they melt, served with corn porridge, rosemary, olives and vegetables they grow themselves. Easily the best meal and best day of my life!
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Rovinj
A year ago I took a short road trip through Istria, Croatia to explore the medieval hilltop towns, Venitian cities, sacred churches, and the famous wine, olive oil and truffles. It is an amazing area of Croatia just across the sea from Venice. It has an incredible mix of Italian and Austrian/Hungarian influence in terms of language, architecture, and food. And it is easy to drive. Everything is within an hour or two of another place or site. We stayed in "Sobe"s which are similar to B&B's. You just look for a sign that says "sobe", knock on the door, and check it out. They are typically separated from the main house and many have a kitchen. So much cheaper than staying in a hotel and you contribute to a local persons income. I highly encourage anyone planning a trip to Croatia to research Istria. You will not be disappointed. Make sure to eat the truffles, try the white wine, and bring back some olive oil. I added a link that has some more photos of Istria below
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Cable Car
I kept putting this off during my trip thinking it was too "touristy", but I'm glad I did. The view really is breathtaking and the museum in the Imperial Fortress just behind it is a must.
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Blue Grotto Bisevo
If you are able to tour the Pakleni Islands near Hvar in Croatia ask to be taken to Bisevo to see the blue grotto. Once you are there you will be taken in a small embarkation as the entrance to the cave is only 1.5 meters high. Once you enter your jaw will drop with the impressive blue color you will see.
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Jarun
Built from the aftermath of the Sava River’s epic flooding in 1964, Jarun Lake is now one of Zagreb’s most cherished recreational areas. Swim, canoe, or sunbathe in the nude during the day. Then dance the night away at one of the legendary clubs such as Club Mansion and Aquarius nearby. Read Scott Hocker's account of his spontaneous journey to Croatia.
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Supetar
"oh, that's not the virgin mary, that's an umbrella." that there sentence pretty much sums up my wife's level of intellectual capacity during our stay on brac. bear in mind, my lovely wife is an accomplished attorney back home in the san francisco bay area. "no slouch," thinks her ever-adoring husband. however, we came to brac island, croatia off the dalmatian coast directly across from split for "a few days." we stayed two weeks. and only then left reluctantly. think you've seen catholicism? you have not, until you start hiking around croatian islands and track the sheer number of virgin mary statues strewn across the scrubby landscape and unbelievably beautiful pebble beaches with the clearest blue water this side of isla mujeres, mexico. well, add to all of your hiking a ton of lazing about the beaches like melons, hours in the sun drinking warm beer (well, that's what we do) and you too will be confusing large patio umbrellas for the virgin mary. honestly, it's one of the best head spaces we've ever achieved. god be praised, indeed. supetar, brac, croatia, go. go now, find mary.
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Split
As we cruised the Adriatic coast from Zadar to Montenegro, we were surprised by the climate (Split is farther north than Boston), cafe society, beautiful people, and a history that stretches from the Romans and Venetians to Turks and today's very modern Croatia. Roman Emperor Diocletian built a massive palace and then resigned and made it his retirement home. Today, the palace face has become a series of cafes and shops that stretch a thousand feet along the waterfront.
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City of Zagreb
From the moment our bleary eyes adjusted to the bright lights of Zagreb's bus terminal from our overnight journey from Split, my friend and I fell in love with what a line in our guidebook claimed as the city's "cafe culture". From the steaming cappuccinos in the morning to glasses of wine at street side tables in the afternoon, we moved around this wonderful city by following the trend set by its friendly citizens under a beautiful April sky. The picture above is of one of many delicious stops we made in Zagreb to eat pastry delights (and what we dubbed "cheesy-bread") during our day of cafe hopping in Croatia's charming capital.
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