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Home > Europe > France

Visit France

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  1. A
  2. Aix En Provence
  3. Albi
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  9. B
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  70. Rouen
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  73. S
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HighlightsWanderlists
eatdrinkstayshopdo

Androuet

Paris
Eat
Androuet, Paris, FranceAfar-thumbnail

 

Meg Zimbeck
AFAR Contributor

The historic Androuet fromagerie has been sourcing and maturing exceptional cheeses since 1909. Their shop on rue Mouffetard is staffed by friendly English-speakers who will be happy to explain and vacuum-seal your selections, including the utterly charming manager Patrick who grew up on a goat farm. He wrote a book called "Allo les Chèvres!" (Good Morning Goats!) and makes his own fromage fort (strong cheese paste) on site. 134 rue Mouffetard, 33/(0)1-4587-8505. Photo courtesy of Parisbymouth.com

The Ultimate French Cheese Shop
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Vivant

Paris
Eat
Vivant, Paris, FranceAfar-thumbnail

 

Meg Zimbeck
AFAR Contributor

Now you can sample the cuisine of celebrated local chefs by visiting their walk-in wine bars. Braden Perkins eases his elegant culinary style at Verjus’s downstairs bar (47 Rue de Montpensier), where groups share small plates of succulent pork belly and veggie dumplings. This fall, chef Pierre Jancou, shown, reopens Vivant (43 Rue des Petites Écuries). Next door, Vivant Cave will serve charcuterie, daily specials such as rabbit and andouillette, and natural wines. Photo by Marie Hennechart. This appeared in the October 2012 issue.

High-end Chefs Go Casual
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17 Rue Montorgueil

Paris
Stay
17 Rue Montorgueil, Paris, France

 

Charles Powell

So, you think you know Paris? There are hundreds of memorable streets and boulevards in the City of Light. But, for my money, Rue Montorgueil is the best. It is compact, only 3 blocks long, with a Metro stop on each end. In between you have dozens of the kinds of places that symbolize Parisian culture: cafes, high end restaurants, cheese shops, chocolate shops, wine stores, patisseries, a couple of neighborhood type groceries, all topped with classic Parisian apartment buildings. And, what makes it even more unique, it is a pedestrian-only street. For my wife and I, who have always stayed in smaller hotels in years past, it was a throwback to the Paris we first saw 40 years ago. In fact, this street is just off Les Halles, where the heartbeat of Paris was once found in the colorful and vibrant market district. The old Les Halles is now gone, moved to the suburbs. But, there are a few places where the old self-contained neighborhoods still exist, and Rue Montorgueil is the finest example. You won't see many tourists with cameras here. Most are a few blocks away at the Pompidou Center or a short metro ride away at the Louvre or Notre Dame. What you will find is Stohers, the oldest Patisserie in France, where baba au rhum was first made, and eclairs are world famous. And, this is just one of many gourmet surprises. We just spent a week in an Apartment on this street, and fell in love with Paris all over again.

The Greatest Street in Paris
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COUTUME Cafe

Paris
Drink
COUTUME Cafe, Paris, FranceAfar-thumbnail

 

Meg Zimbeck
AFAR Contributor

The Paris café scene has always been compelling, but the actual café (coffee) is often forgettable. That's all changing, thanks to places like Coutume, Kookaboora and Telescope, where obsessive (and often mustachioed) baristas are redefining the French coffee tradition. Using freshly roasted beans and frothy Normandy milk, they're producing delicious fuel for the real raison d'être for any Parisian café—the people watching. Coutume, 47 Rue de Babylone, 33/(0) 1-4551-5047. Kookaboora, 53 Avenue Trudaine, 33/(0) 1-5692-1241. Telescope, 5 rue Villedo. Photo courtesy of Parisbymouth.com.

Where to Find Good Coffee in Paris
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Poilane

Paris
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Meg Zimbeck
AFAR Contributor

Shops and bakeries are introducing spruced-up versions of classic Parisian foods. Here are the best addresses to try traditional and eclectic takes on three iconic French treats. 1. CROISSANT The Classic: The flaky pastries from Poilâne are made with rich French butter and fired in a wood-burning oven. 8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 33/(0) 14-548-4259, poilane.com The Twist: Sadaharu Aoki sweetens his pastry layers with green tea powder. The black sesame éclair is also delicious. 35 Rue de Vaugirard, 33/(0) 14-544-4890, sadaharuaoki.com 2. BAGUETTE The Classic: Sébastien Mauvieux, who supplies President François Hollande with his daily bread, won the honors for best baguette in Paris at this year’s Grand Prix. 159 Rue Ordener, 33/(0) 14-262-7670 The Twist: Baker Gontran Cherrier uses squid ink to turn his baguette black before rolling it in sesame seeds. 22 Rue Caulaincourt, 33/(0) 14-606- 8266, gontrancherrierboulanger.com 3. MACARON The Classic: Ladurée has lured cookie enthusiasts since 1862 with traditional flavors such as chocolate and salted butter caramel. 16 Rue Royale, 33/(0) 14-260-2179, laduree.fr The Twist: Pierre Hermé surprises customers by sneaking asparagus and foie gras flavors into his creations. 72 Rue Bonaparte, 33/(0) 14-354-4777, pierreherme.comIllustration by Michael Hoeweler. This appeared in the October 2012 issue.

Paris Treats, Classic and Avant-Garde
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Paris

Paris
Eat
Paris, Paris, France

 

Sivan Askayo
Local Expert

My friend, who lives in Paris, told me about this Boulangerie, Du Pain et des Idees, so in my latest visit to Paris on June, I had to go there and try out by myself. We bought cheese in a local outdoor market and then got some bread and cakes and headed for a picnic linch on one of the benches near Canal St. Martin. As I love boulangeries, don't skip this one. Highly recommended!

Du Pain et des Idees
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Paris

Paris
Do
Paris, Paris, FranceAfar-thumbnail

 

Afar Magazine

by Samuel Fromartz “People can either be over-the-top romantic about Paris, or they think life is ridiculous here,” says David Lebovitz. “I try to strike a middle ground.” Lebovitz, an American, worked for 13 years in the pastry department at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, then moved to Paris to launch a second career as a writer, blogger, and occasional culinary tour guide. The author of six self-referential cookbooks, Lebovitz most recently published The Sweet Life in Paris, a collection of recipes and stories about life in his adopted city. During a day off from my tour of duty with Arnaud Delmontel (read “Time to Rise“), I wandered through Paris with Lebovitz to pick up some foodie tips. We met at Du Pain et des Idées (34 Rue Yves Toudic, 10th arrondissement, 33/(0) 1-42- 40-44-52), an artisan boulangerie founded by Christophe Vasseur, a fashion executive turned baker. For bread, Lebovitz’s other favorite boulangeries include Eric Kayser (85 Boulevard Malesherbes, 8th arrondissement, 33/(0) 1-45-22-70-30; plus other locations around Paris) and La Boulangerie par Véronique Mauclerc (83 Rue de Crimée, 19th arrondissement, 33/(0) 1-42-40-64-55). As we walked and talked, Lebovitz insisted we stop for an afternoon snack of chouquettes, palm-size cream puffs covered with sugar and baked until brown. We picked up 10 of them, studded with chocolate chips, at the pâtisserie Aux Péchés Normands (9 Rue du Faubourg du Temple, 10th arrondissement, 33/(0) 1-42-08-47-73). When I asked Lebovitz about the most pleasing pastry he’s had lately, he mentioned Alsatian kugelhopf, a semisweet confection somewhere between a cake and a bread, spiked with rum and almonds. It’s available at Vandermeersch (278 Avenue Daumesnil, 12th arrondissement, 33/(0) 1-43-47-21-66). “The only problem is that they just make them on weekends, so I have to wait all week to get one,” he said. And his favorite morning pastry? The bostock, a disk of light almond cake topped with crackly almonds, which Lebovitz picks up at Ladurée (75 Avenue des Champs-Elysées, 8th arrondissement, 33/(0) 1-40-75-08-75). Photographs by Brian Doben. This appeared in the premiere issue, 2009. Read “13 Tips for Visiting a Paris Boulangerie.”

David Lebovitz’s Sweet and Savory Tour of Paris
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Hotel Le Relais Saint Germain

Paris
EatStay
Hotel Le Relais Saint Germain, Paris, FranceAfar-thumbnail

 

Meg Zimbeck
AFAR Contributor

Booking a room at Le Relais Saint-Germain, managed by the beloved chef Yves Camdeborde, is the only surefire way to score a table at his bistro next door, Le Comptoir. Each hotel room is dedicated to a prominent author who was inspired by Paris, and guests enjoy a satisfying Basque breakfast. You’re also just steps away from L’Avant Comptoir wine bar, Patrick Roger chocolates, and other Saint-Germain food pilgrimage sites. From $344. 9 Carrefour de L’Odéon, 33/(0) 1-4427-0797.

How to Score a Reservation at Le Comptoir
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Caves Augé

Paris
Drink
Caves Augé, Paris, FranceAfar-thumbnail

 

Meg Zimbeck
AFAR Contributor

Paris wine shops routinely host free tastings, often led by the growers who make the wine. Paris by Mouth publishes a calendar of tastings, but two shops can be depended upon to have something interesting on the weekends: Les Caves Augé and La Dernière Goutte. The latter has a mainly French clientele but, because it's run by Juan Sanchez, a Cuban-American who has been in Paris for more than 20 years, the winery prides itself in helping English-speakers discover the wonderful wines of France. Les Caves Augé, 116 Boulevard Haussmann, 33/(0) 1-4522-1697; La Dernière Goutte, 6 Rue de Bourbon le Château, 33/(0) 1-4329-1162, ladernieregoutte.net. Photo courtesy of Parisbymouth.com

Where to Drink Wine for Free in Paris
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Paris

Paris
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Paris, Paris, France

 

uncle Louie

My wife and two friends were tired of "museums" so they mistakenly decided to go shopping while I went to the Rodin Museum alone. It was breathtaking, the flowers were all in full bloom, the art on displayed inside was rare and beautiful but the sculptures outside were displayed the way art should be seen. Here in three planes is the original design by Eiffel for the Tower, Rodin's Thinker and mid ground with the Eiffel Tower in the back round. The gardens were just perfect and I was sorry for my friends show decided to go into a department store to shop instead.

Rodin Museum Paris France
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Semilla

Paris
Eat
Semilla, Paris, France

 

Lindsey Tramuta
AFAR Ambassador

You'd think that having a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (a prestigious crafstman title) at the helm of a restaurant would imply steep prices but at Semilla, you're in for one of the best meals and best deals. The international influence is strong here, where Ferrandi-trained chefs serve up modern interpretations of classic French dishes in a stunning open kitchen. The crowd is mixed, the service is smooth and attentive and the bread, an important element to any meal in France, is rustic and hearty - baked fresh in the adjacent sandwich shop run by the same owners. But the most unique aspect to the menu at Semilla is the option of half-portions on a selection of dishes. It's tapas with a twist and suitable for all tastes - meat, fish or veggie. The left bank is far more interesting (and delicious) thanks to Semilla. Open 7 days a week. (Be sure to call ahead and don't miss out on the shiitake mushrooms!)

A Fresh and Affordable Bite in Paris
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Musée du Louvre

Paris
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Musée du Louvre, Paris, France

 

Lindsey Tramuta
AFAR Ambassador

The Louvre is at once spectacular and intimidating and for art novices, its sheer size and collection may even prove anxiety-inducing. To avoid shuffling through each corridor aimelessly, it's wise to visit armed with an intinerary or even a guide to create a tour according to what you'd most like to see. Thanks to one New York expat, there's now a third option. Daisy de Plume (yes, a pseudonym!), art fanatic and entrepreneur, launched ThatLou (Treasure Hunt at the Louvre) as a way to give purpose to touring the museum (and make it fun!). She runs a hunt open to the general public on the first Sunday of each month and several thematic hunts throughout the month. Beyond its value as a unique way to explore pieces of history, ThatLou is a great way to meet new people. Note: some tours are bilingual, others are all in French. Consult the "Menu of Hunts" for more information!

A unique way to explore The Louvre
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Rue de la Colombe

Paris
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Rue de la Colombe, Paris, France

 

Shelly Morgan

My first day in Paris, I was giddy with excitement and lack of sleep. So in the early morning quiet, I stole out of my flat on I'le Saint Louis to explore the empty streets and alleys of I'le de la Cite. With a sense of awe and wonder I meandered aimlessly drinking in everything around me. When I turned the corner onto Rue de la Columbe, I was struck by this scene that typifies Paris... The restaurant worker, readying the cafe for the onslaught of patrons that would soon appear. A lone woman sipping cafe creme while deciding what treat she would chose from the carte. Outdoor tables and chairs beckoning diners to stop for awhile under the ever-present window boxes with their riotous punctuation of color. The two bicycles, a preferred Parisian transportation mode, leaning gently against the cafe, completed the perfect picture. This is the Paris I had longed to see...the quaint charm of normal Parisian life. It is a sight that is played out daily throughout all 20 arrondissements. But, on this day in September it played out only for me... And, I pinched myself to make sure I was not dreaming.

Parisian Perfection on Ile de la Cite
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Pierre Hermé

Paris
Eat
Pierre Hermé, Paris, France

 

Lindsey Tramuta
AFAR Ambassador

The great macaron debate may forever wage on but from the first time I tucked into a small box of Pierre Hermé's dimunitive cookies, perfectly crisp on the outside and melt-in-your-mouth soft on the inside, I knew I'd remain loyal to his interpretation. Perhaps best known for his unique flavors - foie gras and chocolate, lemon and fennel, vanilla and basil among many others - it's his Ispahan croissant - with rose almond paste and crushed raspberry flakes - that really keeps me going back.

The Macaron King: Pierre Hermé
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Telescope

Paris
Drink
Telescope, Paris, France

 

Lindsey Tramuta
AFAR Ambassador

Hold forth with the French about coffee and you'll quickly understand its purpose. It's not meant to be consumed leisurely but rather serves to clean the palate after a hearty meal. They think of it as a digestif which they tend to down in one slurp. It's wincingly acrid and unpleasant, only worth ordering for the accompanying speculoos cookie or chocolate covered almond. For someone as fanatic about quality coffee as me, the java scene was dismal when I arrived 6 years ago. Things improved drastically a few years ago with a couple of roasters diving in to shake things up but it's Télescope, which opened in the spring by Nicolas Clerc and American barista David Flynn a few blocks from the Palais Royal gardens, that peddles what I think are the most expertly prepared artisanal coffee drinks in town. Their claim to fame: filtered coffee. It may look innocuous, even weak, but the strong, rich notes in each cup put the average French brew to shame. It quickly became my weekly hangout. Though the space is small, its affable owners give it heart. They know my drink - a noisette with an occasional iced coffee (filtered!) - and my vacation plans. It's the neighborhood place I always dreamed of frequenting and whether or not it's actually around the corner from you, it merits your time.

Quality Roasts and a Third Place
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Frenchie

Paris
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Frenchie, Paris, FranceAfar-thumbnail

 

Meg Zimbeck
AFAR Contributor

Frenchie is nearly impossible to get into, but the wine bar across the street provides a taste of chef Gregory Marchand’s housemade charcuterie and pasta, and small plates such as blackened mackerel and burrata cheese with peaches. 6 Rue du Nil, 33/(0) 1-4039-9619. Photo courtesy of Parisbymouth.com

Eat Like You're at Frenchie
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La Cuisine Paris

Paris
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La Cuisine Paris, Paris, France

 

Sivan Askayo
Local Expert

Who doesn't want to know how to cook French Cuisine? Even I, lacking any sense of cooking, would love to learn how to make a delicious chocolate mouse myself and my guests. For this matter, Paris is filled with cooking schools that offer various cooking and baking classes geared towards locals and tourists alike. One of them is La Cuisine Paris, located in the heart of the city and offering cooking classes in English. You can learn how to make a 3-course meal, how to make macarons, bake Croissant as well as Pain au Chocolat and Le Croissant aux or learn all about different cheeses. The staff includes skilled international professional chefs (French and non-French). If you don't feel like cooking, and just want to explore the 'outside' of the kitchen, you can sign up for a Food Tour at various locations. Highly recommended: Come hungry!

French Culinary Classes in the Heart of Paris
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24 Place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris

Paris
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24 Place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris, Paris, France

 

Joseph Cyr
Local Expert

In French, the idiomatic equivalent for 'window-shopping' is "leche-vitrine," which literally means 'window-licking'--appropriate for staring in the storefront of a bakery on a cold February day! Here at the très chic Boulangerie Fauchon, on the Place de la Madeleine in the heart of Paris, the loaves can look almost too good to eat.

'window-licking'
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Château de Fontainebleau

Fontainebleau
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Château de Fontainebleau, Fontainebleau, France

 

Joseph Cyr
Local Expert

A quick 40-minute train ride from the Gare de Lyon in central Paris takes you to one of the best day-trips out of the city: a forest preserve surrounding a palace that dates back nine centuries. The Forêt de Fontainebleau offers a hundred square miles of protected land for hiking, biking, and horseback-riding...all surrounding the magnificent Château de Fontainebleau. Although a castle has been here since the 1100's, most of the current construction dates from the Renaissance. Site of Napoléon I's abdication in 1814, this château is much less crowded than Versailles. When I lived in Paris, this was the closest 'wilderness' available. If you want a break from the hectic urbanity of Paris, come to Fontainebleau mid-week; you'll feel as if you have a forest and château to yourself.

Out of the city, through the woods, to a château: Fontain...
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Île Saint-Louis

Paris
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Île Saint-Louis, Paris, France

 

Shelly Morgan

When deciding where to stay on my first two week trip to Paris, I had some very stringent criteria. I wanted the local experience and felt that a flat was more likely to offer that. So I eagerly began my search for something in a very safe and central location. When I spotted such a flat on I'le Saint Loius, I was sold. The island is located in the middle of the Seine and just across the bridge from I'le de la Cite, the very center of Paris. I'le Saint Louis is the perfect location to explore all the wonders of Paris. What I didn't expect was the wonderful small village charm of the island. You can literally find almost everything you need on this tiny piece of real estate. Patisseries, boulangeries and fromageries abound. There are dozens of boutiques, cafes, creperies and bistros. The plethora of ice cream and gelato stores is enough to put one into a diabetic coma. The island even boasts its own exquisite church and the tiny colorful florist shop above. I'le Saint Louis became my home away from home for two glorious weeks, while I lived my Parisian dream. For two weeks I lived among both locals and tourists and came to know the shopkeepers by name. I have no doubt that staying on this little piece of heaven made my trip a more memorable one... It could do the same for you.

The Delights of I'le Saint Louis...
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Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris

Paris
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Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris, Paris, France

 

Lara Dalinsky
Local Expert

As cliché as it sounds, there is nothing like springtime in Paris. A detour to Notre Dame's side garden is a great way to evade the crowds out front and enjoy a more scenic view of the cathedral's flying buttresses and gothic architecture. Further back one can find Pont de l'Archevêché – a bridge full of locks left behind by lovers.

April in Paris
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Deyrolle

Paris
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Deyrolle, Paris, FranceAfar-thumbnail

 

Jen Murphy
AFAR Editor

Even if you don’t like taxidermy, you’ll like this store. We had the animals photographed, and we turned the manipulated photos into prints for an Opening Ceremony collection. 33/(0) 1-42-22-3007. For the September, 2012 issue, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim of Opening Ceremony shared with us their favorite places in Argentina and around the world.

For All Your Taxidermy Needs
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Fête des Tuileries, 75001 Paris

Paris
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Fête des Tuileries, 75001 Paris, Paris, France

 

Lara Dalinsky
Local Expert

I arrived in Paris at 6:00 a.m. after a restless, overnight flight from Washington DC with the knowledge that it was still too early to check-in to my hotel room. Weary and fatigued, I left my baggage with the concierge and headed to the l'Orangerie to peacefully ease my way into the day among Monet's giant water lilies. The small museum is an urban oasis located in the Tuileries Gardens across from the Louvre. Its two oval-shaped rooms offer panoramic views of Monet's serene Nymphéas series.The paintings are a part of the structure since the artist had the panels built into the walls. The best time to visit is at opening on weekday mornings. Not only will you avoid noisy school groups, but it's a great time of day to admire the nuances of the abstract paintings changing under natural light.

Overcoming French Jet Lag
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Angelina

Paris
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Angelina, Paris, France

 

Andi Fisher
AFAR Ambassador

Yes, Angelina on the Rue de Rivoli (around the Tuileries Garden and the Louvre) is a tourist spot, but it is still one of the BEST places for hot chocolate in Paris. Their menu of pastries and other small dishes are good, but don't miss out on the hot chocolate. It is a fun place to people watch as there is a mixture of tourists, diplomats and government workers as well as grandes dames get their sweet tooth fixes. Sit as table 11 (3rd from the back against the mirror) and you'll sit where Coco Chanel took her hot chocolate nearly every day.

A touristy spot, but still one of the best for hot chocol...
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La Promenade Plantée (aka La Coulée Verte)

Paris
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La Promenade Plantée (aka La Coulée Verte), Paris, France

 

Claire Yurdin

Paris boasts an unusual elevated park, La Promenade Plantée, built atop an abandoned elevated railway viaduct in the 12th arrondissement. The Promenade starts a block east of the Place de la Bastille, just beyond the Opera Bastille, and stretches for 2.9 elevated miles. What a clever way to create green space in a neighborhood that badly needed more! The Promenade features many roses, trellises, shrubs, and trees and is amply provided with benches for relaxing. It is a unique experience to stroll along peering into third story windows while enjoying the flowers, foliage, and architectural detail up close. The work required to create this park is impressive. Landscape architect Jacques Vergely and architect Philippe Mathieux designed the Promenade, which opened in 1993. The arcades of the Viaduc des Arts were renovated in 1989. The Promenade was the only elevated park in the world until the famous Highline in the Chelsea area of Manhattan copied the idea, opening in 2010. Chicago and Philadelphia plan to follow suit with similar elevated parks built on old railway viaducts. On a spring day, people from the neighborhood sit and chat, a jogger trots by, and office workers enjoy their lunches in the sunshine. At the Bastille end, arts and crafts shops are nestled in the viaduct arches under the parkway, called the Viaduc des Arts. After an elevated stroll, it is fun to window shop.

The First Elevated Park
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134 RDT

Paris
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134 RDT, Paris, FranceAfar-thumbnail

 

Meg Zimbeck
AFAR Contributor

Tasting the city's best baguettes is one thing, but wouldn't it also be great to learn how to make them? Award-winning baker Benjamin Turquier, shown, runs the bakery 134 RdT and placed in the top 10 in this year's annual Best Baguette in Paris competition. He teaches baguette-making courses for private groups in both French and English. You learn about every step of the process and actually produce your own baguettes to taste after class. 134 rue de Turenne, 33/(0) 1-4278-0472. Photo courtesy of Parisbymouth.com.

Bake Baguettes Like a Parisien
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Les Bouquinistes de Paris

Paris
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Les Bouquinistes de Paris, Paris, France

 

Lindsey Tramuta
AFAR Ambassador

If you've ever walked along the banks of the river Seine, you've probably seen long green boxes and their vendors plying souvenirs, postcards and a variety of other knick-knacks. But did you know that these Bouquinistes - all 240+ of them - are considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site? Take the time to peruse what they're offering. More than just frivolous trinkets, many of them house collector's items from vintage magazines and stamps to used books, trading cards and old photos (which make for a far more interesting postcard). Stroll the Seine and talk to the vendors - you might just find yourself walking away with a Parisian treasure you'll actually want to hang onto. (Bouquinistes are set up on the right bank from Pont Marie to Quai du Louvre and on the left bank from Quai de la Tournelle to Quai Voltaire)

A Seine-Side Treasure Hunt
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