By April Kilcrease August 28th, 2009 8:01 am |

Hot and spicy on the tongue, harissa seems to inspire similarly fiery passions in the hearts of many cooks. But nothing compares to the erotic rapture of Abdelmajid Mahjoub, head of Les Moulins Mahjoub, a family-run farm in Tunisia’s Mejerda Valley. Posted on the food blog Sugar Cauldron, Mahjoub had this to say about his first taste of the chile paste:
I can still hear the enchantment of women crying out of pleasure, they weep out in ecstasy when they see it, unfolding its charms on a slice of bread.
After reading this, and the rest of his rhapsodic poem (“Virgins are bursting away with pleasure, elbowing their way through to reach ecstasy…Its flame, lingering on in my fragile memory, has marked me…with all its sensations.), I had to try it. I ordered a jar and tossed Les Moulins Mahjoub’s mixture of sundried peppers, garlic, cardamom, salt, and coriander into a chicken and pasta dish. While I wouldn’t call the experience transcendent, it was tasty.
As ubiquitous in Tunisia as hot sauce in Mexico, the condiment gets spread on almost everything—pizza, eggs, cream cheese, all food tastes better with a harissa kick. The basic recipe calls for dried red chiles, salt, and olive oil, but north African variations include onions, tomatoes, mint, and rose petals. Mahjoub recommends adding harissa to lablabi, a traditional chickpea stew.
If you’re hankering to pound some chiles with a pestle, food historian and cookbook author Clifford A. Wright provides a Berber-style recipe on his Mediterranean food Web site. A merchant in Tunis gave him the original ingredient list, which required fifty pounds of chiles. Thankfully, Wright has scaled it down.
You can order Les Moulins Mahjoub Harissa from Cube’s online market.
For a simple harissa dish, try Kitchen Caravan’s Harissa Deviled Eggs recipe.
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