In the Korean capital's Myeongdong district, you're not limited to 'Seoul-food;' you can also taste distinctive dishes from Jeonju city, in the country's fertile Southwest. Go to "Go-gung" (pronounce: goh-goong) restaurant. The restaurant's signature dish is "Jeon-ju bi-bim-bap"--in a brass bowl, steamed rice is topped with beef, radish, pumpkin, cucumber, spinach, bellflower root (huh?), bracken-fern (a.k.a. 'fiddleheads'), jujubes (Chinese dates), pine nuts, walnuts, mung-bean-'jelly,' gingko nuts, chestnuts, chili-paste, and a raw egg which gets cooked as you stir everything into the hot rice. Along with the main course come the obligatory 'bahn-chahn' accompaniments, including soy-bean-sprout soup, mild cabbage kimchi, red napa kimchi, and 'bin-deh-tteok': mung-bean-and-vegetable 'pancake.' To wash it down--what looks like a glass of iced latte is in fact 'moju,' a rustic country-style rice-wine; don't let the cloudy color scare you! The restaurant even has a website (with English translation!) for more information: http://www.gogung.co.kr/eng/store/index.htm

Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


Bukchon Sonmandu
Bukchon, the historic neighborhood between Gyeongbok-gung and Changdeok-gung Palaces in the heart of Seoul, is the home of "Buk-chon son mandu," which translates as 'hand-made dumplings.' Even though this is a Seoul chain restaurant, the namesake location is here, and it has the feel of a neighborhood hole-in-the-wall. All is fresh, made right in front of you. For just a few bucks, steamed or fried, you can sample a delicious variety of 'mandu'--the Korean version of 'wontons,' or 'gyoza'...The restaurant also specializes in North-Korean-style buckwheat noodles served in a cold spicy broth. From the An-guk subway station, go north on Bukchon-ro; you'll pass the Constitutional Court on the left...continue to the first major intersection after that and turn right. Just after you curve to the right, you'll find the restaurant on your right. Chal-mo-go! ("Eat well!")
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


Seoul
Arguably Seoul's most memorable and most exotic street-snack, 'buhn-deh-ghee' (silkworm larvae) are pure protein...if you've ever had boiled peanuts, they're quite similar! They're a snacking ritual in the Korean capital: sooner or later, if you get to know any locals, they'll buy you some, generously insisting that you try the healthy specialty, just to see your face as you chow down on the steamed chrysalis... (for the "ritual" theme for the week of Feb 16th-22nd)
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


Myeong-dong
In the midst of the crowds, this roasted chestnut stand caught my eye in Myongdong's nighttime chaos. This bastion of neon and pedestrians in the heart of Seoul is known not just for its shopping, but also for its eating. In addition to international chains (there's a four-story! Starbucks here), the lanes of this district are full of traditional street-fare... The stand's sign is a play on words: one expression involving being hard-headed and a chestnut-homonym, and the other asking passers-by if they want some roasted chestnuts. Trends and fashion-fads come and go, but snacking is timeless...
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


Insa-dong
I love eating at the food stalls of Insa Dong Street. This is where ladies of the royal court used to live during the Joseon Dynasty. Don’t miss the Korean sweet pancakes, fish cakes, and spicy rice cakes. Insa Dong is also known for its classic teahouses. —Heong Soon Park Photo by Kjunstorm/Flickr. This appeared in the May 2013 issue.
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


Namdaemun Night Market
Dumplings are delicious. That's not much of a secret. But snacking on dumplings in one of the world's busiest and most atmospheric night markets? That's an entirely different experience. Namdaeumun Night Market, located smack dab in the heart of Seoul, is a throwback to the Korea of yore, a place where you can sample traditional street treats, fill your pockets with pickled ginger, and a host of other ancient herbal supplements (you'll need them after you power through a bottle of soju), rub shoulders with old school shopkeepers, and buy just about any sort of trinket you can possibly imagine. Namdaemun is a world away from the Seoul that surrounds it, and will always and forever remain one of my favorite places to watch the world go by.
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


Jia Choi O’ngo Food Communications
Seoul-based food pundit Daniel Gray leads eight-hour ultimate insider tours of the city. Each is customizable. Meat lovers can focus on Korean barbecue, while vegetarians may want to sample kongguksu (chilled noodle soup in soy milk broth) and other temple dishes. From $315. This appeared in the May 2013 issue.
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


광장시장 Gwangjang Market, Seoul
For over a century, Seoul's Gwangjang Market has been a destination for snack-seekers. The labyrinthine passageways are covered and you can find anything from knock-off shoes ("fira" instead of "Fila," for example) to chili powder and embroidered silk. But eating takes center-stage in these aisles, especially during lunch-hour. One of the most popular dishes is "bindaetteok" (pronunciation explained below)--a 'pancake' made from a batter of freshly ground mung beans embedded with scallions and kimchi. Brave the crowds, order and then grab a seat; stools crowd around griddles while chopsticks jab at all the fried deliciousness....Order some milky makkeoli ("mahk-go-lee") rice wine to wash it down... Pronunciation tips: "bindaetteok"--rendering Korean into English is tricky; think of saying "bean-debt-dock" with the last T of 'debT' and the following 'D' of 'debt' 'stuck' together. "Gwangjang"--think "gwahng-jahng"... And 'market' is pronounced "shee-jahng." To get here by subway: Take Line 1 to Jong-no 5-ga station and take one of the exits on the south side of Jong-no street. (Sometimes spelled "Jong-ro") To walk off all the mung-beany-ness afterwards, stroll along the banks of Chong-gye-cheon stream, just to the south of the Market. (If you want a taste of this Seoul-food before going, see link to recipe below...)
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


Banyan Tree Club and Spa Seoul
Bukchon Hanok Village offers an old-fashioned Korean hotel experience. You sleep on thick sheets with a hard pillow on a heated floor. Try the Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (shown) if you want to be pampered. —Heong Soon Park This appeared in the May 2013 issue.
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


락고재
Travelers looking for a rich cultural experience should book a room at a hanok, or traditional Korean home. One of the best, Rak Ko Jae, has fancy touches such as jade floors and a mud sauna. Guests can perform a tea ceremony and make their own kimchi to take home. —Heong Soon Park From $250. This appeared in the May 2013 issue.
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


Jongno Tower
One of the most distinctive buildings in central Seoul is the 33-story Jongno Tower, a triangular glass and steel tower topped with an oval floating above seven stories of emptiness. Across the street is the traditionally reconstructed "Bo-shin-gahk" belfry, housing a large bronze bell. During the Joseon dynasty, the bell would be rung 33 times every morning, (symbolizing the 33 heavens of Buddhism), to open the city's gates. At dusk, the bell would be rung 28 times (linked to the locations of constellations) to signal the shutting of the city's gates. The original bell is now in the National Museum, but a reproduction still hangs here, and every December 31st, it's struck 33 times to ring in the New Year. The basement of the Jongno Tower connects with the subway and a shopping arcade, including "Bandi and Luni's," one of Seoul's largest bookstores, with a good selection of English publications. While there is no public observation deck at the top, there is a restaurant/bar, and if you take the elevator to the top, you can linger for a few minutes in the foyer area to catch a view without having to buy anything. (Incidentally, Jongno Street, one of the city's main east-west thoroughfares, means 'Bell Street.' The bell's been ringing here since the end of the 14th century.) To get here by subway: Line 1, exit Jonggak station More info about the architect, Uruguayan Rafael Viñoly, and the architecture: http://www.rvapc.com/works/341-samsung-jong-ro-tower
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


Dongdaemun Stadium
I go to Dongdaemun Market (Dongdaemun Stadium Station) to see how the locals live. The market is made up of 26 shopping malls over multiple blocks. There are more than 5,000 shops. You can find everything from food to clothing to electronic goods here. —Heong Soon Park Photo by d'n'c'/Flickr. This appeared in the May 2013 issue.
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


Insadong
Seoul's Insadong district is one of the best locations for arts and antiques browsing in the Korean capital. On nice days, especially weekends, artisans demonstrate their traditional crafts on the sidewalks--the street turns into another of the city's outdoor markets. With so much manufactured for the souvenir trade, it was refreshing to see this 'haraboji' (respectful Korean term for 'grandfather') painting his fans, one by one, inkstone at his feet--a bit of unlikely art, still slowly painted with bamboo brushes, as smart-phone-wielding city-dwellers rush by... Artists his age have seen Seoul transform itself from the bombed-out ruins of the Korean War (1950-1953) into one of the most Internet-connected cities on Earth; just 30 miles from the world's most heavily fortified border, the DMZ, twenty million people call this metropolitan area home. To get here by subway: Line 3, exit #6 from Anguk station; Line 5, exit #5 from Jongno 3-ga station.
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


Insadong district, Seoul
On a sidewalk in Seoul's Insa-dong district, a husband-and-wife team demonstrate the traditional way to make "tteok," chewy-sticky rice-cakes. Pounding the sweet rice in the giant stone mortar with a wooden pestle turns it into a flour which is then made into toothsome treats. While Insa-dong does cater to foreign visitors, (antiques, handicrafts, souvenirs), it's also a favorite neighborhood for Seoul's citizens to meet for tea, gallery-browse, and re-acquaint themselves with traditionally-made street-snacks. To get here: subway line 3, exit Anguk station, or line 5, exit Jongno 3-ga station. (Pronunciation note: 'tteok' is hard to get 'just right': say 'hot dog'--note how the end of hoT and the beginning of Dog 'stick' together? Now, take that sound and put it at the beginning of 'durk' but you have to pronounce 'durk' as if you're British...Got it? "TTEOK." There you go.)
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


풍기인삼
Namdaemun Market, the most bustling place in Seoul. Food vendors fly through unnavigable aisles with food stacked on their heads, touts selling their wares and a constant stream of shoppers looking to spot the best bargain. Three things you should buy in Namdaemun; 1. Korean Red Ginseng - POW, potent stuff that keeps you mentally and physically sharp. 2. Gochu Chocolate - A chocolate infused with the spicy Korean pepper, this stuff is affordable and perfect for taking on a plane. 3. Hanboks - Tourist can take home a handmade hanbok (something similar to a Kimono, only Korean). These can get pricey but a number of material and color combinations help reduce the price. To get to Namdaemun, take Line 4 to Hoehyun and follow the crowds, this place is packed on the weekends so pick and choose how you would liek to experience it. P.S. - keep an eye (and nose) open for yachae hotteok, a fried "pancake" stuffed with stir-fried vegetables and spiced glass noodles. The lines for these wrap around the corner so for 70 cents a pop by more than you can eat!
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


경복궁 (Gyeongbok Palace)
This hexagonal pavilion on an island surrounded by lotus is one of the loveliest spots in Seoul. But the site's poetic name--"Hyang-won-jeon," meaning 'pavilion of far-reaching fragrance'--belies some turbulent and sad history that took place nearby. In 1895, at the orders of the Japanese ambassador, assassins entered Gyeongbok-gung Palace at night and brutally murdered Queen Min (also known as Empress Myeongseong) just yards from this pond. The political intrigue leading up to her assassination also led, eventually, to the fall of the Joseon dynasty and foreign occupation... A hundred years later, this account was turned into a musical--"The Last Empress", (called by some 'Korea's 'Evita'), played in Seoul for a decade and was performed in London, NY, and Toronto as well. Today, Hyang-won-jeon is one of the most popular spots in Seoul for couples on dates; history's intrigues don't always take center stage... To get to Gyeongbok-gung Palace: Seoul subway Line 3, Gyeongbokgung station. Open 9-5, closed on Tuesdays
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


The Westin Chosun, Seoul
The "Altar to Heaven," hidden away in what is now the garden of the Westin Chosun Hotel in central Seoul, was one of the Joseon Dynasty's last architectural expressions of independence. In the tumult of the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries, the "Hermit Kingdom" struggled to assert its sovereignty as China, Japan, and Russia warred among themselves. Alas, the wake-up call came too late and by 1910, the Joseon Dynasty, founded in 1392, found itself annexed by Japan; it would remain a Japanese colony until 1945. Few visitors end up in this intimate garden; diners at the hotel's 'Ninth Gate Grille' restaurant can enjoy this shrine (built in 1897) almost to themselves, and guests staying on NW side of the hotel overlook this tile-roofed gem, dwarfed by the nearby skyscrapers. For Korean-history-buffs, this is one of Seoul's most poignant enclaves. For more information: http://www.starwoodhotels.com/westin/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=1064
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


Myeongdong 2(i)-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul
"Oh-deng" is a street-food classic on the streets of Seoul. It's kind of hard to describe: 'formed crab-cakes,' or 'white fish sausage'...(sounds weird, tastes great!) Late one night in Seoul's Myongdong district (think Times Square meets the county fair meets neon-lit youth culture, all in skyscrapers' back alleys), I was strolling and snacking, marveling that even Krispy Kreme has penetrated S. Korea's capital...and then I saw this fry-stand: Oh-deng on sticks--wrapped with aromatic perilla (wild sesame) leaves, and then deep-fried: pescetarian corn dogs à la Korea!
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


THE PLAZA
From the upper floors on the north side of 'The Plaza' hotel in central Seoul, this is the view up Sejong-ro, the city's historical main axis. Reopened in 2010 after extensive renovation and redesign by the Italian designer Guido Ciompi, this is Seoul's luxury boutique hotel in the middle of it all. Toward the end of our trip to Korea, my wife and I decided to splurge on a night here. We didn't have time to enjoy all of the hotel's amenities, but the spa and artisanal French bakery were on our list. In room, everything (including drapes and curtains) was 'remote-controllable' from a bed-side touch-screen phone. Perhaps one of The Plaza's greatest amenities is its central location. After my wife's spa treatment, but before catching the direct bus from the hotel to the airport, we were able to go for a walk in the garden of 15th-century Deoksu-gung palace across the street...(The basement of the hotel also connects to underground-shopping-arcades and the subway.) Specifically, the view above looks over giant television screens on the sides of skyscrapers, over monument-dominated Gwanghwamun pedestrian plaza, on to Gyeongbok-gung palace (built when Seoul was established as the capital in 1392), and finally 'The Blue House' on the flank of Bugak-san mountain, the official residence of the South Korean president. For more information: www.hoteltheplaza.com/eng/
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


Seoul
In the Samcheong-dong neighborhood, I saw this whimsical mural on the side of a bakery--perfect for a Francophile Korean sweet-tooth. I became a lover of macarons (NOT to be confused with 'macaroons') when I lived in Paris. I had no idea that the Korean capital would have such a love-affair with these French pastries as well--available throughout the city! Bon appétit! (To get these delicious treats, if you're in Seoul's Bukchon area, check out 'Palette Seoul,' Jong-no-gu, Samcheong-dong, 39-beonji.)
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


Seoul
This is another delicious meal in Seoul, South Korea. It consists of egg, bean sprouts, and seaweed on a bed of rice.
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


커피빈코리아 광화문점
Expecting a stuffy museum, the King Sejong Story was a pleasant surprise. This monument in the center of Seoul housed underneath one of the hippest areas is worth a look. No amount of rambling can present how great King Sejong was for Korea but for starters him along with his cabinet were responsible for Hangeul (Korean alphabet) and advancements in science, culture, arts and politics. I had expected to find busts and dioramas showing off Sejong accomplishments but the whole museum had an artistic spin on it. While walking down a hallway I thought this lighting installation would make a perfect backdrop for a silhouette. To get to the museum take Seoul's purple line, Line 5. Surface and fine the large walkway (fountain included) then walk to the large gold colored monument of King Sejong, the entrance is on the back of his chair.
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


Downtown Seoul
You don't need to go to back alleys or historic markets (although those are great!) to sample traditional snacks in Korea; almost all the major boulevards in the center sprout mini-kitchens, set up on the sidewalk even across from chic western-style businesses. Here, next to an artisanal French pâtisserie and across from a café (Seoul is caffeinated and macaron-crazed), I sampled 'kim-mah-ree'--sweet potato noodles wrapped in seaweed, dipped in tempura batter, then deep-fried. Sizzling oil speaks all languages!
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


Seoul
Amidst the almost hypnotic repetition of pattern and color, I spent an afternoon 'lost' in the colonnades of Changdeok-gung Palace. Focusing my vision on architecture in a historical context far removed from my everyday life--one of my favorite ways to get 'lost' on a trip abroad...This immersion in 'the other' is often one of the most refreshing aspects of travel. (for the 'lost' theme in the 'Catch' contest)
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


N Seoul tower
When we fell in love with lover, we want to promise the eternal love. N seoul tower is one of the sacred place of love. Lots of couples have visited there then locked their own lock at the fence and throw the key out of the fence. They believe it'll protect their love from all situation that interfer with their love :) but you know, when I saw that at first time , I thought how many locks were loose their masters ...
This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


Seoul
Seoul has to be Asia's most caffeinated mega-city. There is plenty of tea to be had, but coffee rules in Korea's capital. Along with an abundance of multi-storied Starbucks, every street seems to have sprouted a home-grown café: from the Italian-inspired (Pascucci, Caffe Bene) to the French (Paris Baguette, Tous les Jours), the sacreligious (God in a cup) and the pseudo-religious (Angel-in-us), royal (Coffee Prince) and musical (Johannes Brahms), prepositions ("at-to-on"?), from the purely Asian (Gurunaru), to delightfully fractured English (Yoger presso, A twosome place, Me Too, cafe sand&food). Coffee and kimchee--it's what Koreans run on! As erstwhile Seattlites, my wife and I had our fun sampling the different interpretations of the bean while in Seoul. Some were good, some were bad, many were puzzling (red bean latte? black bean latte? GREEN bean latte?), and most all were pricey...
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists


A 'pojang-macha' in Seoul
Seoul is full of street food; open-air markets and sidewalk stalls abound. But wander the avenues at night, and warm light from under tarps beckons--the "poh-jahng-mah-chah." Literally meaning 'covered/tented, wagon,' these are an institution of Korean life. A truck or cart will park on a street-corner. The sides go up--tarps unroll, lights come on, a scattering of plastic tables and stools appear--instant conviviality with snacks and drinks. Leave your polished expectations behind, even if the particular pojangmacha is around the corner from an über-chic department store, or at the front steps of a bank headquarters skyscraper. This is completely unpretentious; no napkins here--just rolls of toilet paper hanging from the temporary ceiling. Most don't have English-language menus, but occasionally the delightful mistranslation occurs--my wife's favorite is "chicken butt hole house"--chicken gizzards! You can get bottled water and sodas, but beer and soju reign here. Office workers shed their ties on their way home, and loud conversations compete with the chopstick-waving...
Travelers who liked this Highlight


This Highlight was saved to the Wanderlists
























Sign up for AFAR newsletters:
Thank you for your interest.
You have been added to AFAR's subscription list for weekly newsletters. ENJOY!
Your privacy is very important to us. AFAR will never sell or rent your email address. For more information on our Privacy Policy, click here








