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Romantic Beach

Kuala Besut
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Romantic Beach, Kuala Besut, Malaysia

 

Rey Madolora
Local Expert

A visit to the Perhentian Islands is a must if you find yourself in Malaysia and want some beach time! If you want a nice quaint island stay on Perhentian Besar. If you are looking for more action then stay on Perhentian Kecil, but even Kecil is very nice and has its remote and quiet areas. There are no cars or roads on the island. One morning we rented a kayak for the day and paddled to "romantic beach" (east side of Kecil) and had the beach to ourselves most of the time. You can also hire a boat taxi for a few dollars ($3USD). Along the way there are tiny private beaches if you want some alone time!

Romantic Beach - Perhentian Islands - Malaysia
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Ubud

Ubud
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Ubud, Ubud, Indonesia

 

Benny Haddad

Our first morning in Bali we woke up around 4am. Jet lag will easily do that to you. It did however, allow us to witness a glorious sunrise over the rice fields that were just across a river from our cabana. It was an epic way to start our visit.

Jet Lagged Morning
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Annapurna

Manang
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Annapurna, Manang, NepalAfar-thumbnail

 

Darrell Hartman
AFAR Contributor

In the mountain village of Koto, Nepal, there is a path that branches off the legendary 150-mile Annapurna Circuit and passes—ceremoniously, tantalizingly—through a large stone gate. This trail is off-limits, a nearby sign reads, unless you have a registered guide and a special permit. Luckily, I’ve got both. I proceed through the stone portal with my guide, Ian, and I pause to spin three Buddhist prayer wheels. With this simple gesture, I leave one of the world’s most popular trails (sadly, the Annapurna Circuit is also known as the “Coca-Cola Circuit”) and head north into the Forbidden Valley, also known as the Nar-Phu Valley, a Himalayan region where Western visitors are comparatively few and far between.I’m traveling with Epic Tomato, a new expedition-focused venture from the U.K.-based travel company Black Tomato. Epic Tomato specializes in getting well-traveled, thrill-seeking clients like myself off the grid for serious adventures far away from the normal, more casual tourist circuits. I’ve gotten off the beaten path before, hiking through the backcountry of Zion National Park in Utah and the Himalayan foothills in India. What makes this trek different is that despite the remoteness, you encounter people who actually live in the mountains you’re hiking. This ancient route opened to limited trekking in 2003. The trickle of tourists has brought small changes such as new wire suspension bridges and widened ledges—improvements that make the journey slightly less mythic than it once was, and considerably less harrowing. But remarkably, the valley, and the lifestyle of its inhabitants, are much the same as they were centuries ago.Hours after spinning the prayer wheels in Koto, we are well on our way to the next village, Phu. Inaccessible by road and three days away by foot, Phu is one of the most remote villages in Asia.The path is cut into a rock face high above the Phu River. To my right, a slope bursts with tall pines and firs; to my left I stare down at the rumbling river. At one point, I squeeze myself against a ledge to let a donkey train pass underneath a waterfall. Later on, I find myself behind a lone villager.After spending the night in a rustic campsite, we start hiking at seven the next morning; soon the deep, narrow gorge opens and we find ourselves on a terraced plateau dotted with wind-bent junipers. Pisang Peak rises into perfect blue skies; across the river sits a red-roofed monastery. In the late afternoon, we pitch our tents amid a jumble of abandoned, straw-roofed homes. I sit atop one, thinking big thoughts and eventually none at all.The landscape becomes yet more austere on day three, as we hit 13,000 feet and counting. We arrive at Phu, a honeycomb of simple, flat-roofed houses packed onto a hillside. A dusty village hemmed in by mountains, Phu is a place of scant resources. Piles of firewood, gathered on long, back-breaking walks, double as insulation. Yak herders shout at each other across the hills. “Nepali cell phone,” Ian jokes.The next morning, I wake before everyone around me. I leave my tent to contemplate the fading stars when I notice the outline of a villager trudging toward me. He’s heading into the hills, a basket on his back, and as he passes me in the half-light, he gives me a knowing smile—as though, today at least, we belong to the same brotherhood of early risers.The Tibetan border is two days’ walk to the north but closed to foreigners. I exit the village by the same route I entered and begin the two-day journey back. It’s a rapid comedown, and not just in terms of altitude. I felt like a privileged guest in this isolated land of rock and wind, where the solitude was as intense as any I’ve ever felt, even as I shared it with people who have inhabited the Nar-Phu Valley for centuries. See video Darrell Hartman shot on his trip. Nar-Phu Valley Trek with Epic Tomato, (888) 341-9663, epictomato.com. From $9,189 for a 15-day trip including meals, accommodations, and charter flights within Nepal. Photo by Taylor Miles. This appeared in the July/August 2012 issue.

Trek Nepal’s Forbidden Valley
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Arashiyama bamboo forest

Ukyo Ward
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Arashiyama bamboo forest, Ukyo Ward, Japan

 

Jack MacDonough
Local Expert

In western Kyoto, there is a very large forest of bamboo. As you can see in the photo, the shoots grow very tall, making those who stroll by look quite small. I'm sure there are times when this road is crowded, but when we were there, people were few and far between. My only regret was not understanding that this forest would be the only one we saw. I wish I had taken more photos. Bamboo grows extremely fast, which is why it is the fastest renewable plant product that I know. It is not a tree, it is a grass. Some forests have grown to 20 to 30 feet in a growing season of four months. Just Google Arashiyama bamboo forest and you will see more photos and more data about this location and how to get there. The walk through this forest was most peaceful.

Arashiyama bamboo forest, Kyoto, Japan
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Karaköy Lokantasi

Istanbul
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Karaköy Lokantasi, Istanbul, TurkeyAfar-thumbnail

 

Afar Magazine

by Sylvia Kouvali The best restaurant in the area is run by the sweetest owners, Oral Kurt and Aylin Okutan, and is rooted in the tradition of simple food and refined service. The Ottoman and Turkish menu includes dishes like hünkar beğendi, a meat stew on smoky eggplant puree. Kemankeş Cd. No. 37/A, 90/(0) 212-292-4455, karakoylokantasi.com As told to Lawrence Osborne. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo by Metin Oner. See all of Sylvia Kouvali’s favorite places in Istanbul.

Karaköy Lokantasi Restaurant, Istanbul
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Chiew Lan Lodging

Ban Ta Khun
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Chiew Lan Lodging, Ban Ta Khun, Thailand

 

Dijedal

Waking early to the loud morning chorus of the Thai rainforest is an amazing experience. Whooping gibbons, honking hornbills and buzzing insects compete to fill the air waves with their loud songs to the new day. The floating bungalows on Lake Chiew Lan are located in Khao Sok National Park in Surat Thani province. A night or two can be arranged through your lodging in Khlong Sok near the park entrance. In our case, we stayed at Khao Sok Rainforest Resort and prearranged a night on the water as part of our package. In addition to the morning music, you'll be joined for breakfast by nosy macaques.

Stay: Raft Bungalows
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Goreme

Kayseri
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Goreme, Kayseri, Turkey

 

Ilene Schreider

Cappadocia. Is amazing!! If you are going to Turkey don't miss this area!! There are many cave hotels. Ours was dreamy.

Cave Hotel In Turkey
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Phi Phi Arboreal Resort

Mueang Krabi
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Phi Phi Arboreal Resort, Mueang Krabi, Thailand

 

Matthew Keesecker
Local Expert

On the island of Kho Phi Phi, there is the usual town that greets you with bars, restaurant and easy-to-get lodging if you didn't plan ahead. However, if you are so inclined, on the far side of the island there is a veritable Smurf village that awaits you. You can hike 45 minutes through the trails to get there, or take a long tail boat, but either way it's worth discovering Phi Phi Relax Resort! This enchanting little gathering of hut houses is made by hand from the locals with materials only from the surrounding jungle. There is no hot water, but it's also not cold, and it's extremely refreshing after being in the sun all day and swimming in the ocean. And the electricity is only turned on at night so you can navigate your way among the village's stepping stone trails. I mean, I know we wanted 'off the grid,' but we didn't expect it to be literally. This place was green before it was cool to be green.

Oasis Lodging
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Hiç

Istanbul
Shop
Hiç, Istanbul, TurkeyAfar-thumbnail

 

Afar Magazine

by Sylvia Kouvali A few blocks from Rodeo, Hiç is a shop where you can find beautiful ceramic tableware, Afghan and Turkish carpets, and contemporary crafts at reasonable prices. Lüleci Hendek Cd. No. 35, 90/(0) 212-251-9973, hiccrafts.com As told to Lawrence Osborne. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo by Metin Oner. See all of Sylvia Kouvali’s favorite places in Istanbul.

Hiç Contemporary Crafts, Istanbul
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Dương Đông, Phú Quốc, Kiên Giang Province

Dương Đông
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Dương Đông, Phú Quốc, Kiên Giang Province, Dương Đông, Vietnam

 

Colin Roohan
Local Expert

Prior to going to Phu Quoc, Vietnam my research showed that the "sleepy" fishing village, Duong Dong, was nothing more than a blip you would see between the airport and the island's resort areas. I found this information to be false. Duong Dong was refreshing, the commotion of the town was very exciting. Phu Quoc is a Vietnamese island off of the southern tip of Vietnam. It is quickly becoming a tourist hot spot boasting its pristine beaches and laid back atmosphere. The photo above was taken amidst a maze of fishing boats in Duong Dong Harbor, near the market (the market with exception to the town's airport may be the only landmark in Duong Dong). The town is so small that you can just about see everything in an hour. If on holiday, stay on Phu Quoc's Long Beach, there are a handful of resorts but Cassica Cottages makes their own Cinnamon Ice Cream..killer. From Long Beach walk north up the beach for about 20-30 minutes until you reach Duong Dong. The harbor and market are another 5 minutes south from there.

Lost
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Sanur Boardwalk

Denpasar
StayDo
Sanur Boardwalk, Denpasar, Indonesia

 

Rey Madolora
Local Expert

Sanur is a beautiful and quaint part of Bali with lushes hotels along the boardwalk that lines the beach. The boardwalk really makes Sanur special as walking in Bali can be treacherous in most of the towns with narrow streets and tiny sidewalks, but this pathed path in Sanur is great for biking and long walks along the beach. Walk to the south end of the boardwalk for a great view of the sunset and find a nice little cafe to have a Bintang (beer) or a Bali kopi (coffee).

Sunset in Sanur
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Yöremiz Pide

Istanbul
Eat
Yöremiz Pide, Istanbul, TurkeyAfar-thumbnail

 

Afar Magazine

by Sylvia Kouvali The neighorhood’s best bakery is across the street from Rodeo. They make good lahmacun, something between an unrolled pita and a thin-crust pizza. The pides, pizza-like baked breads, are also excellent. Lüleci Hendek Cd. No. 14, 90/(0) 212-249-8272 As told to Lawrence Osborne. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo by Metin Oner. See all of Sylvia Kouvali’s favorite places in Istanbul.

Yöremiz Pide, Istanbul
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Istanbul Modern

Istanbul
DoEat
Istanbul Modern, Istanbul, TurkeyAfar-thumbnail

 

Afar Magazine

by Sylvia Kouvali The Istanbul Modern, right on the Bosporus, shows works from such well-known Turkish artists as Kutlug Ataman. The second-floor restaurant has harbor views. Meclis-i Mebusan Cd. Liman İşletmeleri Sahası Antrepo No. 4, 90/(0) 212-334-7300, istanbulmodern.org As told to Lawrence Osborne. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo by Metin Oner. See all of Sylvia Kouvali’s favorite places in Istanbul.

The Istanbul Modern Art Museum
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Nusa Lembongan

Nusapenida
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Nusa Lembongan, Nusapenida, Indonesia

 

Rey Madolora
Local Expert

Located just off the eastern shore of Bali, Indonesia is a small island called Nusa Lembongan. It is a great place for a day trip if you're vacation on Bali and is only a 30-40min boat ride from Sanur. There is a boat that will take you between the two islands a few times a day. Once arriving on the shores of Lembongan it is best to rent a scooter for the day (~$6USD). There are only a few roads on the island so it is impossible to get lost and the beaches are well marked by signs. Unlike Bali there is no traffic on the island! We set out around the island in a counterclockwise loop. We stopped and watched the villagers drying colorfull seaweed along the shore (this is used to make ice-cream). We stopped at the mangroves for a fresh seafood lunch, some beach time, and some snorkeling. And then explored the many picturesque beaches around the island. Our favorite was "Dream Beach" and it lived up to its name. Be sure you don't lose track of time on this paradise of an island. It is easy to do and we almost missed our return boat back to Bali that afternoon!

Island of Dreams
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Hội An, Quảng Nam Province

Hội An
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Hội An, Quảng Nam Province, Hội An, Vietnam

 

Dezerai Seitzer

To me, a lot of Vietnam has a “rough” feel. There is constant traffic, a lot of people, and land still recuperating from the war; but not so in Hoi An. Hoi An is a beautiful little town, untouched by many of the tragedies that have taken place in Vietnam. At times, it can feel a world away from the rest of the country. Hoi An sits along the Thu Bon River, on Vietnams’ eastern border. Many of the untouched buildings look as if they’ve been placed there for a movie set. Walking down the narrow streets, passing temples and buildings with French colonial facades, it’s like stepping back in time. Hoi An is also a town known for its craftsmanship. Dress shops line the streets, and within 24 hours, you can have a whole new wardrobe made to your exact measurements. There are fantastic restaurants, gourmet coffee shops, and trendy wine bars. One evening after a delightful Vietnamese claypot meal, my husband and I went for a walk over the bridge connecting the main town with Cam Nam Island. We walked one street south of the bridge and stepped into one of the most beautiful night markets I have ever seen. Lined up and down the street were silk lantern vendors with all of their lanterns aglow. We spent a couple hours just wandering from vendor to vendor consumed by the beauty of these colorful lights. I wanted to take home one of every color and fill my house with their tranquility. If you’re visiting Vietnam, be sure to put Hoi An on your list of places to stay!

Stay Among the Silk Lanterns
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Jigokudani Monkey Park

Yamanouchi
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Jigokudani Monkey Park, Yamanouchi, Japan

 

Danna Gutman

I left tropical Southeast Asia for Japan in the dead of winter for one reason - to see snow monkeys. I'd always seen pictures like the one above, of zen macaques in steaming hot springs surrounded by snow, and had no idea how accessible they were but was determined to find them. Turns out, it's just an hour bullet train to Nagano from Tokyo, and then another train to Yudanaka, a sleepy winter wonderland offering onsen galore... and the Jigokudani Snow Monkey park! A morning encounter with these primates, the only ones other than humans known to thrive in a snowy environment, is not to be missed. While the adults soak in the springs, appearing to follow a strict code of conduct surrounding this activity - much like their local human counterparts do! - the mischievous youngsters practice acrobatics and start snowball fights.

Japanese Snow Monkeys
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4 Rivers Floating Lodge 

Tatai
Stay
4 Rivers Floating Lodge , Tatai, CambodiaAfar-thumbnail

 

Afar Magazine

I hadn’t been awake for longer than a minute. I peeled back the tarp door to my room, walked out onto my deck, and leapt. It was an abrupt but purifying way to start the day. The cool, brackish water instantly defogged my mind, and my eyes opened to see the surrounding Tatai River and dense Cambodian rain forest. A lone sampan, anchored along an islet, was the only man-made object to interrupt the natural scenery. My chic bungalow lightly swayed on the calm water behind me, an incongruous encampment against the wild jungle backdrop. Located on the southern tip of the Cardamom Mountains, near the Gulf of Thailand, the 4 Rivers Floating Lodge lives up to its name. Accessible only by boat, the retreat’s 12 landless suites all float on their own buoyant platforms, moored to the riverbank. Outfitted with a ceiling fan, armoire, and wood-paneled shower, each of the towering, safari-style tented rooms also provides a nearly 360-degree view of the tropical landscape. A boardwalk connects the rooms to a central lounge and dining area decorated in a muted variety of Miami Beach sleek. At first blush, getting to this secluded outpost might seem daunting. I took a five-hour bus trip from Phnom Penh, followed by a half-hour longboat ride from the village of Tatai. But the journey is well worth the peaceful reward. The Cardamom Mountains contain the largest and most intact evergreen rain forest in mainland Southeast Asia. For decades, the region was largely off-limits to developers because of land mines and fighting between government forces and the Khmer Rouge militia. This very isolation protected the area’s natural habitat, which is now home to scores of endangered species, including Asian elephants, hairy-nosed otters, and Siamese crocodiles. Mine-clearance efforts and the end of hostilities have made travel here safe for more than 10 years, but it remains a sparsely populated frontier. The area’s remoteness is remarkable in and of itself. In the afternoon, I took a boat ride to the Tatai waterfall with several other guests. Even our skipper, a young Cambodian man who leads visitors on these trips every day, was still in awe of the lush surroundings. “So quiet and beautiful,” he said, looking at the palm trees along the river’s edge. After we arrived at our destination, I spent the rest of the day sitting beneath the waterfall’s forceful but soothing cascades, letting nature’s masseuse relax my muscles. I returned to the lodge for dinner beneath an orange and purple sunset. On the restaurant’s uncovered patio, the only sound accompanying the clang of my utensils was the soft splash of kingfishers swooping to pluck fish from the river. I was less delicate, digging into skewers of mozzarella, watermelon, and fresh shrimp and a plate of steamed river fish topped with a basil cream sauce. In the lingering twilight, I sipped a gin and tonic on my private terrace before easing under my bedsheets. As the gently undulating waters rocked me to sleep, any illusions I had about roughing it in the wilderness drifted away. —Brendan Brady 4 Rivers Floating Lodge, Koh Andet Island, Tatai Village (20 minutes from Koh Kong), Cambodia. 855/(0) 97-64-34-032, ecolodges.asia. From $139 per night. Includes breakfast and boat ride from the village of Tatai. Photo by Dolly Van Cleve. This appeared in the September/October 2010 issue.  See more overwater bungalows: The Mandina Lodges, GambiaSoneva Gili by Six Senses, MaldivesPunta Caracol Acqua-Lodge, PanamaLe Méridien Bora Bora, French Polynesia

Overwater Bungalows: 4 Rivers Floating Lodge, Cambodia
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Hakone Open Air Museum

Hakone
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Hakone Open Air Museum, Hakone, Japan

 

Jon Sheer
Local Expert

Inside the Symphonic Sculpture by Gabriel Loire at the Hakone Open Air Museum (彫刻の森 in Japanese) in Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan. The museum opened in 1969 as the first open-air art museum in Japan. The spectacular grounds set against the backdrop of Mt. Fuji are the permanent home for hundreds of works by well-known modern and contemporary sculptors and artists, including Picasso. Rodin, Bourdelle, Miro and Moore. There is also a series of installations where children can play, a footbath fed by natural hot springs, and a variety of other facilities including restaurants and shops.

Prismatic Piston
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Ta Prohm Kel

Siem Reap
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Ta Prohm Kel, Siem Reap, Cambodia

 

Dijedal

Visitng Ta Prohm feels like you are rediscovering a lost kingdom being reclaimed by the forest. The trick is to go to Ta Prohm first, while everyone else is at Angkor Wat, and explore the crumbling ruins alone.

Reclaiming an Ancient City
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Bas

Istanbul
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Bas, Istanbul, TurkeyAfar-thumbnail

 

Afar Magazine

by Sylvia Kouvali This place is run by Banu Cennetoğlu, one of Turkey’s most important artists. It acts as a public archive for artists’ books. The stationery shop on the ground floor, As Kirtasiye, is like a museum of paper and pens. Necatibey Cd. No. 32/2, 90/(0) 555-503-3847, b-a-s.info As told to Lawrence Osborne. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo by Metin Oner. See all of Sylvia Kouvali’s favorite places in Istanbul.

Bas Artists’ Books, Istanbul
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Fener and Balat District

Istanbul
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Fener and Balat District, Istanbul, Turkey

 

Leeann Murphy
Local Expert

My Local Guide Istanbul provides a unique tour of Istanbul's UNESCO World Heritage listed renovated and ruined Ottoman Houses. Walking amongst the locals was an experience in itself, with local kids curious to see us in their colourful community. After, we relaxed at Piere Loti Cafe overlooking the seven hills of Istanbul. Highly recommended tour to get away from the normal tourist trail - check out www.mylocalguideistanbul.com

Off the Tourist Track in Istanbul
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Laos

Louangphabang
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Laos, Louangphabang, Laos

 

Becky Timbers

While in Laos I did a jungle trek into the Bokeo Reserve, then spent three days ziplining from treehouse to treehouse. We would sleep up in the canopy and every morning and evening our meals would come zipping in.

Ziplining through the rainforest
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Petra

Maan
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Petra, Maan, Jordan

 

Rachel Tobias

As we were making out way through the mazed entanglements of towering red rock, still tingling with awe after the magnificent sight of the ancient city of Petra, I happened to turn around just as this horse and carriage were coming around the corner. It was an odd sight as a modern traveler on foot, but for a second made me believe I might have traveled back to ancient times, as traders rode in and out with their wares and their water.

Out of Petra
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Cafe Michelangelo

Tokyo
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Cafe Michelangelo, Tokyo, JapanAfar-thumbnail

 

Afar Magazine

My wife’s favorite coffee shop in Daikanyama has an open terrace that’s perfect for people-watching. The space was inspired by 18th-century Italian cafés. —Kashiwa Sato 29-3 Sarugaku-cho, Shibuya-ku, 81/(0) 3-3770-9517. Photo by Marie Takahashi. This appeared in the January/February 2013 issue. Read more about Kashiwa Sato’s Higashi neighborhood of Tokyo.

People Watching and Coffee Drinking at Caffe Michelangelo
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Kintamani

Kintamani
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Kintamani, Kintamani, Indonesia

 

Benny Haddad

This is Coffee. In Bali we were lucky enough to meet a man who actually loves coffee more than me. He generously offered to take us to his business partners coffee plantation and show us around for the day. I learned more about the growth, processing, selling, roasting, and creating of this nectar of the gods than I ever knew was possible in those hours. This is our friend picking a ripe coffee fruit.

Caffeine High!
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Rodeo Art Gallery

Istanbul
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Rodeo Art Gallery, Istanbul, TurkeyAfar-thumbnail

 

Afar Magazine

by Sylvia Kouvali My little avant-garde gallery does more than just hang art on the walls. We show performance art, too. We once had the multidisciplinary Turkish artist Cevdet Erek rubbing his hands along a carpet that was hung on a gallery wall. It was like a dance. Lüleci Hendek Cd. No. 12, 90/(0) 212-293-5800, rodeo-gallery.com As told to Lawrence Osborne. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo by Metin Oner. See all of Sylvia Kouvali’s favorite places in Istanbul.

Rodeo Art Gallery, Istanbul
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Angkor Wat

Siem Reap
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Angkor Wat, Siem Reap, Cambodia

 

Flash Parker
AFAR Ambassador

For some, Angkor Wat epitomizes the Cambodian travel experience. The ancient ruins at Angkor stand as one of mankind's greatest engineering achievements, best experienced as day breaks - so long as you beat the tourist hordes to a good spot across the lake.

Sunrise Over Angkor Wat
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