by Sylvia Kouvali The best restaurant in the area is run by the sweetest owners, Oral Kurt and Aylin Okutan, and is rooted in the tradition of simple food and refined service. The Ottoman and Turkish menu includes dishes like hünkar beğendi, a meat stew on smoky eggplant puree. Kemankeş Cd. No. 37/A, 90/(0) 212-292-4455, karakoylokantasi.com As told to Lawrence Osborne. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo by Metin Oner. See all of Sylvia Kouvali’s favorite places in Istanbul.
by Sylvia Kouvali A few blocks from Rodeo, Hiç is a shop where you can find beautiful ceramic tableware, Afghan and Turkish carpets, and contemporary crafts at reasonable prices. Lüleci Hendek Cd. No. 35, 90/(0) 212-251-9973, hiccrafts.com As told to Lawrence Osborne. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo by Metin Oner. See all of Sylvia Kouvali’s favorite places in Istanbul.
Cappadocia. Is amazing!! If you are going to Turkey don't miss this area!! There are many cave hotels. Ours was dreamy.
by Sylvia Kouvali The neighorhood’s best bakery is across the street from Rodeo. They make good lahmacun, something between an unrolled pita and a thin-crust pizza. The pides, pizza-like baked breads, are also excellent. Lüleci Hendek Cd. No. 14, 90/(0) 212-249-8272 As told to Lawrence Osborne. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo by Metin Oner. See all of Sylvia Kouvali’s favorite places in Istanbul.
by Sylvia Kouvali The Istanbul Modern, right on the Bosporus, shows works from such well-known Turkish artists as Kutlug Ataman. The second-floor restaurant has harbor views. Meclis-i Mebusan Cd. Liman İşletmeleri Sahası Antrepo No. 4, 90/(0) 212-334-7300, istanbulmodern.org As told to Lawrence Osborne. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo by Metin Oner. See all of Sylvia Kouvali’s favorite places in Istanbul.
by Sylvia Kouvali This place is run by Banu Cennetoğlu, one of Turkey’s most important artists. It acts as a public archive for artists’ books. The stationery shop on the ground floor, As Kirtasiye, is like a museum of paper and pens. Necatibey Cd. No. 32/2, 90/(0) 555-503-3847, b-a-s.info As told to Lawrence Osborne. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo by Metin Oner. See all of Sylvia Kouvali’s favorite places in Istanbul.
My Local Guide Istanbul provides a unique tour of Istanbul's UNESCO World Heritage listed renovated and ruined Ottoman Houses. Walking amongst the locals was an experience in itself, with local kids curious to see us in their colourful community. After, we relaxed at Piere Loti Cafe overlooking the seven hills of Istanbul. Highly recommended tour to get away from the normal tourist trail - check out www.mylocalguideistanbul.com
by Sylvia Kouvali My little avant-garde gallery does more than just hang art on the walls. We show performance art, too. We once had the multidisciplinary Turkish artist Cevdet Erek rubbing his hands along a carpet that was hung on a gallery wall. It was like a dance. Lüleci Hendek Cd. No. 12, 90/(0) 212-293-5800, rodeo-gallery.com As told to Lawrence Osborne. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo by Metin Oner. See all of Sylvia Kouvali’s favorite places in Istanbul.
by Sylvia Kouvali The mosque here was built for an admiral who, they say, demanded that the architect Sinan build him ‘something like that,’ as he pointed across to the Aya Sofia. The complex also includes a newly renovated hammam where I take steam breaks to relax. Tophane Square As told to Lawrence Osborne. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo by Metin Oner. See all of Sylvia Kouvali’s favorite places in Istanbul.
The Galata Tower is one of Istanbul's most striking landmarks. The nine-story stone tower offers a panoramic vista of Old Istanbul and its environs. Save Galata for the end of the day, timing it so that you reach the top just in time for sunset and stay for the Aksam (the evening call to prayer). Watching the sun disappear while hearing the prayer for a new day was my most poignant memory in Istanbul.
by Sylvia Kouvali The artist Mark Van Yetter and his wife, Ayça Odabasi, run this gallery around the corner from Rodeo. Their art exhibitions are always free-spirited. Ali Hoca Sk. No. 4 Kat. 2, marquisedancehall.com As told to Lawrence Osborne. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo by Metin Oner. See all of Sylvia Kouvali’s favorite places in Istanbul.
I stood at the entrance to the greatest market in all of Byzantium, the glittering Grand Bazaar. Enthralled and petrified by the swirling mass of people pouring past, I stopped to take stock. 4,000 stores filled the musty and smoke-filled bazaar, spilling their wares into the miles of cobblestoned streets and alleys. Stall after treasure-heaped stall beckoned. With only an hour till closing I dashed down alleys and careened around corners — I wanted to see it all before I decided where to shop “Just pick one or two shops,” my husband wisely advised. I could feel the sand slipping through the hourglass — I would never see it all. Hookahs, painted bowls, brilliantly colored slippers all charmed me. But it was the jewel-toned hanging glass lamps that drew me to pause under them and gaze, dreaming of sultry Ottoman nights as the waning sunlight flickered through the thousand and one colors and drifted down to gild my upturned face. Though candy to my camera, they were out of my budget. My explorations over, I settled on some crimson tea glasses. I talked the shopkeeper down a few lira. My technique? Smiling hugely when I offered my price.
by Sylvia Kouvali A multipurpose contemporary art center that opened in November in the Ottoman Bank building, Salt has a library with thousands of shelves of art publications—the most important, impressive collection in the city. Bankalar Cd. No. 11, 90/(0) 212-334-2200, saltonline.org As told to Lawrence Osborne. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo by Metin Oner. See all of Sylvia Kouvali’s favorite places in Istanbul.
We arrived in Istanbul with runny noses and foggy heads. Luckily we were introduced to Salep, a hot drink sold on the cheap from street vendors armed with steaming copper kettles. In addition to ingredients like milk, honey, and cream, ground orchid bud is a main ingredient as well. The medicinal properties in the flower have been used for centuries, and it looks like it's still just as useful as it ever was. Not only is it incredibly delicious and perfect for a cold Istanbul day, but our head colds were gone as well! (Catch! Delicious entry!)
Zeynep Fadillioğlu—the first woman in Turkey to design a mosque—is behind a new 270-room hotel in Istanbul’s cultural and commercial heart. An Ottoman tent canopies the Atrium lounge, and limited-edition sketches of Istanbul by the Turkish painter Devrim Erbil are displayed throughout the hotel. Try an authentic bathing routine of steam, sauna, and massage in one of four hammams in the vast top-floor spa. At the new Brasserie Bench restaurant, enjoy Albanian burek, phyllo stuffed with meat or cheese. From $205. 90/(0) 212-987- 4000. Photo courtesy of Marti Istanbul. This appeared in the January/February 2013 issue.
If you only get to ride in a hot air balloon once in your life, do it over Cappadocia, Turkey. Amazing. Cappadocia is surreal when seen from any angle. The region is peppered with strange pointy stone spires that rise up toward the sky, in pastel colors and lacy cutouts. The columns are spectacular when viewed from the ground. But, floating in the wicker basket of a hot air balloon, looking across Cappadocia’s landscape, is otherworldly. The balloons are launched before dawn so that you are well underway before the sun’s rays begin to lick the mountains. When that golden orb eventually breaks onto the scene, the sight is breathtaking. In this photo, I caught the sun shining through a nearby balloon. Any photographer worth her salt is pumping adrenaline, furiously snapping pictures as fast as the camera can stand it.
I have raved about this small boutique hotel, Karia Bel, located right on the Aegean Sea in the town of Bozburun, Turkey. This hotel was a holiday home from the mid-80's until 2009 when Beliz, the owner of the hotel and daughter of the man who built the original house, created Karia Bel. It is heavenly. The sun deck is the gathering point for the guests. Breakfast and dinner are served here (and are included in the price). Beliz is a fabulous hostess who will treat you like family. Her staff are amazing, seeing that you have everything you need. I stayed there 3 times over the course of 3 months. Beliz and I are now friends. It is the best place I have ever stayed. The perfect blend: unpretentious, simple elegance, natural, peaceful. If I were to pick a place and call it paradise, this would be it.
This cistern is thought to have been built after the Nika revolt in 532 AD. It was known as the Basilica Cistern during the Roman period. After the conquest of the city by the Ottoman Turks, it was forgotten of and nobody knew that it existed. It was re-discovered in 1545, it was used to water the gardens of Topkapi Palace. Today it has a rather eery and mystical ambiance.
One of the inexplicable joys and surprises of a recent trip to Istanbul was the privilege of touring Ara Güler's private gallery. I stopped into Kafe Ara to thank a manager--and met the famed photographer, himself. He made jokes, posing this "candid" shot, signing my book "Cover Girl." Months later I returned with a gift. I am grateful for the introduction to his work--truly magnificent storytelling through pictures. When I asked some pointed questions about his photojournalism, he said the photo is a "spirit. You only need to imagine it." I'm still pondering: was he sharing a secret to getting to know a subject, allowing it to speak? Was he making a sarcastic criticism of contemporary digital editing? Then again, maybe Güler was pulling my leg again, a little truth, a little humor. Regardless, his words inspire me to see photography--and life--differently. Perhaps life is far more intangible and ephemeral than we like to think, and the best way to “see” is by closing our eyes. The walls of the Kafe Ara are certainly filled with “spirit.” Ara Güler: http://www.araguler.com.tr/ Ara Kafe—delicious food filled with oversized prints by the master, and a case full of his books—always an experience.
Warm, fragrant and filling, these borek are a typical Turkish quick eats. They can be stuffed with either ground spiced meat (occasionally with black currents and/or pine nuts) or a cheese and parsley mix. They are enjoyed best fresh out of the over with a delicate glass of strong Turkish tea.
Cafe Ara was a perfect stop on a rainy chilly day in the Taksim/Beyoglu part of Karakoy, Istanbul, Turkey. The cafe is named after a magnificent Turkish photographer who worked in Istanbul and whose large format black and white images adorn the walls along with colorful antique kitchen and home items. Ara Guler is the namesake for the cafe and it is not to be missed if you are in the area just pop in and see his photography. This is a good starting or finishing point for an art gallery crawl in the neighborhood. Whether you're hungry for a hearty Mediterranean meal or just looking to sip an amazing Turkish Coffee this spot is going to take care of your cravings.
On the recommendation of AFAR contributing writer Matt Gross, I made sure to eat a meal at Ciya when I was in Istanbul last summer. One afternoon, I dragged my travel companions--a German, a Turk, and two New Yorkers--to Kadikoy, a neighborhood on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. Everyone was cranky and hungry by the time we found it, but I knew the second we walked in, the trek was worth it. The chef, Musa Daðdeviren, comes from eastern Turkey, and his dishes reflect the diverse traditions of the region. We shared many small plates we picked from the counters at the front: fresh salads flavored with seeds and unusual herbs, stewed beans, perfectly tender eggplant, Turkish meatballs, and hot pide bread. For dessert, we tried candied pumpkin, which had a taffy-like texture like nothing I've ever tasted. I could eat there everyday.
Be sure to buy some spices. Most of the vendors have their own special mixtures. And the best part: the vendors can vacuum-seal your purchase for the trip home.
When visiting Turkey there is one experience not to be missed - the Turkish Bath (hamam). Here's a guide to enjoy one of the best tourist attractions in Turkey. 1) Most hamams have separate male and female baths, whilst others are unisex. Find a hamam that will suit you. 2) Hamams can be over 600 years old, with bathing methods just as old. Don't expect modern staff uniforms - underwear or towels are it. 3) Hamams were once where business deals were made and mothers sought wives for their sons by checking out the goods of local girls. Bathing is therefore for all ages, shapes and sizes. Leave body hang ups at the door. 4) Bring a hairbrush and anything else you use after bathing. Hairdryers are available. 5) On arrival, you will be given a locker, a scrubbing glove and towel. 6) Wear what is comfortable for you under your towel - bathers, underwear or nudity is acceptable. 7) Enter the hamam wrapped in a towel and wear slippers provided to avoid slipping in the wet. 8) Be prepared, the hamam is warm, so before lying on the dais, drink water to hydrate and pour water on yourself. 9) Take your time. Lie on the dais for 10 – 20 minutes. An attendant will gesture you for your scrub, but it's ok to tell them to wait if you want to relax longer. 10) The hamam includes a 10 minute scrub with splashings of water, followed by a lathering of soap and massage for about 10 minutes - finishing with a wash down. You can exit the hamam sparkling clean and radiant in your own time.
One of my favorite foods in Turkey (and there are many) is a serving of fresh kaymak clotted cream, drizzled with honey, and spread on bread. You can buy it in the supermarket or find it in some breakfast spots, but everyone's favorite is Pando in Beşiktaş. It's getting a bit over-discovered (especially on weekends) and Pando is getting a bit old and crochety, but it's still a delicious spot to fuel up before taking a ferry to the Asian side or walking up to Ortakoy.
The Whirling Dervish Lodge in Bursa puts on a nightly spiritual performance that gets you back to the basics of why the whirling dervishes exist. This is no 'show' for tourists, this is a spiritual event and service. I felt lucky that they allowed me (a woman) to sit on the main floor to take photos and video. Normally women sit in the top balcony and men are on the main floor. You can see the utter devotion on these men and boys' faces - a true experience in Turkey!
I had just left the Spice Bazaar behind me when I noticed the entrance to Yeni Camii (New Mosque). It was late afternoon and I was already exhausted from a very long day of sightseeing. I wanted nothing more than to call it a day but I was already here so I thought I would just quickly dart in and out. One foot inside and the plan changed. Compared to the Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque, the domed interior of Yeni Camii is a much more intimate space but equally stunning in design. As in the Blue Mosque, calligraphic discs hang from just below the edges of the ornately painted domes and soaring sections of walls are covered with beautiful Iznik tiles. Gold paint adds a rich, punctuating touch. Thick wool carpeting lines every inch of the floor. As expansive as the interior is, it also feels very luxurious and inviting. As tired as I was, I didn’t want to leave anytime soon. Walking around, I discovered that Yeni Camii has a visitors section and you are welcome to sit there. I found my spot on the carpet and discretely watched a slice of local life unfold before me - men and women praying, people having conversations in hushed tones, and a few tourists milling about. Enveloped by the quiet of this serene space, I felt rejuvenated in no time. For whatever reason, Yeni Camii is not as popular with the tourists as the Blue Mosque is but it’s definitely worth a visit, even if you’re not a weary tourist like I was.
© 2013 AFAR Media
