I was in Shanghai for work, but decided to do a bit exploring for soup dumplings. I came across this place via a local food blogger and decided to try it out. It was quite honestly, Incredible. The place is pretty small, with only a handful of tables. The lack of decoration tells you only one thing...that this place is ALL about its food. There is a station in the main room where about 5 teenage girls gather around to assemble all the dumplings. What makes these soup dumplings better than the rest has to be their skins. They are the perfect balance between thin and strong. They don't break when you pick them up, nor do they overpower the filling. Pay the extra $1 and get the vinegar ginger dipping sauce. Never have I tasted such a light, fruity vinegar, this is really what made the dumplings sing.

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Jiuzhaigou
Jiuzhaigou Valley (or Jiuzhaigou National Park) is located in Sichuan, China. It is one of the World Heritage Site by UNESCO. This is the longest hiking experience I've ever had - it took me two days to finish every part of the park! However, I have to say, I'm already blessed by the modern road condition - "hardwood floor" type of the pathway that carved/built around the trees.
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Drum Tower
The old hutongs [alleys] near Drum Tower are lined with nameless snack shops selling what I call Chinese fast food. One staple is shui jiao, which are boiled dumplings typically filled with pork and fennel. You dip them in vinegar and soy sauce with chili oil mixed in to your taste. —Fuchsia Dunlop Photo by See-ming Lee/Flickr. This appeared in the May 2013 issue.
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泰安路120号
Among the hundreds of new cafés catering to the booming market for caffeine in Shanghai, Café Aroom, hidden down a residential alley, is a local secret. Ring the doorbell to enter a space filled with vintage cameras, antique kitchen tools, and decorative lamps. No. 15, Lane 120, Taian Lu, 86/(0) 21-5213-0360. Image courtesy of Café Aroom.
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South Bund Fabric Market
Shanghai tailors are the best in the world, says fashion designer Christy Holzer, whose label, Dowry Designs, was inspired by the city. She suggests visiting the South Bund fabric market to order custom garments. DRESS: STALL 308 “A fun style to wear is the qipao [a centuries-old Chinese dress that got its form-fitting shape in the 1920s]. Traditional silk patterns make the garment look old, so request a solid-color silk.” SUIT: STALL 309 “If you want truly exceptional fabric, ask for 100 percent wool. Most of the wool fabrics they have are blends. Specify that they line your suit with 100 percent silk or cotton.” COTTON SHIRT: STALL 310 “Look at the buttons the tailors are planning to use, as they often choose cheap ones. If you don’t like the buttons, stop by a button stall at the market; it will be worth the extra investment.” Illustration by Michael Hoeweler. This appeared in the March/April 2013 issue.
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Zhenlao Dafang
Shanghai is known for seasonal foods such as hairy crab in the fall and mooncakes during the Mid-Autumn Festival. But if you’ve missed these dates, you can still sample a Shanghai delicacy: the pork "mooncake" (xianrou bing)—if you're willing to wait in a very long line. The pork mooncake it's not actually a traditional mooncake, but rather a savory flaky pastry which is available year round. At the Qing Dynasty—founded Zhen Lao Da Fang on downtown Nanjing Road Pedestrian Street (Nanjing Lu Buxing Jie), patrons wait in line, sometimes for hours (the record wait time is 8 hours), for a box of these freshly-baked pastries stuffed with minced pork. One imperative: Eat them piping hot while the crust is crispy and the interior juicy. 536 Nanjing Dong Lu, 86/(0) 21-6322-3928. Photo by Crystyl Mo.
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WildChina
From October 13 to 24, food writer Fuchsia Dunlop will lead guests through cooking classes, insiders’ restaurant visits, and a farm stop on a culinary tour from Beijing to Shanghai. From $5,990. Photo by Keren Su/Corbis. This appeared in the October 2012 issue.
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City God Temple
This street is next to the Yu Garden (on your way), and store after store are endless gift shop and eateries. I went there in a rainy day, but still - look how crowded it is!
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Xishuangbanna
In March, Anantara opened a resort in a rugged part of southern Yunnan Province. Guests can unwind with tai chi classes and pick tea with local Jinuo tribe members. From $300. 86/(0) 691-893- 6666. Photo courtesy of Anantara Xishuangbanna Resort. This appeared in the June/July 2013 issue.
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Da Dong Roast Duck Restaurant
You can’t leave Beijing without having Peking duck at Da Dong. I eat the crisp skin first, dipped in sugar. Then I pile the skin, meat, leek, cucumber, and sweet, fermented sauce onto pancakes. I finish by drinking the broth from the carcass. —Fuchsia Dunlop Photo by Natalie Behring/Getty Images. This appeared in the May 2013 issue.
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Lhasa, Tibet
Just before dawn, I’d set out to explore Chakpori—the “Iron Hill”—highest promontory in Lhasa. On it’s summit, Sangye Gyatsho, seventeenth century regent of Tibet, built the Mentsikhang, a medical college that turned out doctors until it was demolished in the uprising of 1959 and replaced with a steel radio transmitter tower to broadcast the news of Tibet’s “peaceful liberation” by the PLA. I had worked my way up on a path that skirts the 7th century Palha Luphuk—a retreat cave used by King Songtsen Gampo—and finally reached a ridge overlooking the Potala Palace—former seat of the Tibetan government. Blue, white, red, green, and yellow prayer flags bearing images of the “wind horse” had been strung from a steel pole and were flapping like a flock of excited birds over a four-foot high rock cairn built of flat mani stones. Bits of paper and juniper needles were burning in a concavity atop the altar: a lhasang—“offering to the gods”—incorporated from ancient Bön tradition. Whoever built it had split, probably to avoid the cops. From that lofty perch, I had watched the golden dawn kiss the Potala, framed decorously by flags singing unanswered prayers into the perpetual wind of the Tibetan plateau. Seven years later, those flags had been ripped down, and the once crystal blue sky was smudged gray with smoke from the city’s new cement factories.
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Forbidden City
Beside the architectural beauty of the Forbidden City, I just love the color palette of the entire palace. The lavish gold, red and green mixture created such contrast yet cohesive look.
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Tibet
In a snowstorm at Pethang Ringmo I was invited into a felt tent for yak butter tea with a drögpa, a nomadic herder. His blackened hands carved off a chunk of butter with a long knife, which he melted into a battered teapot over a dung fire. As he poured tea, I saw something fascinating in his smoky eyes, something wild and primal. Like he knew things—things I could never even imagine. As the storm subsided, and the last drop was drained from my cup, the herder leapt to his feet and pulled back the tent flap like a stage magician revealing the prestige of his trick. I rose slowly, light-headed, and emerged into a dreamscape, watched a curtain of silver mist begin to part, slowly unveiling an immense granite shrine—the ice-glazed buttress of Jomolonzo, towering 23,000 feet above sea level in a golden halo—so close it took what little breath I had left away. Glancing back, the drögie grinned as if to say, "Whoa! Check it out, dude.” I don't know if I will ever be able to explain what happened to me in that moment. I can't say if it should be written off to dehydration, oxygen deprivation, cerebral edema, or satori? I only remember feeling that there was no separation at all between the herder, the mountain, and myself. We were all made not only of the same carbon substance, but the same non-substance. We were form and emptiness all in the same instant. "Ha ko song," I told him I got it.
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Hai Wanjulao Beijing Noodles With Soybean Paste King
Hai Wan Ju is a cheap spot to taste Beijing folk cooking. They make very good noodles—handmade, of course. The zha jiang mian—noodles with fried bean sauce and vegetables—is a classic Beijing noodle dish. Here, they also add pork. —Fuchsia Dunlop 21 Zengguang Lu, Haidian District, 86/ (0) 10-8207-0488. Photo by Gary Soup/Flickr. This appeared in the May 2013 issue.
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Xinlelu 五原路87号
Online fashion brand Xinlelu showcases independent labels from Asia and around the world in an attractive offline villa with purple French doors and a leafy courtyard. Check out the Finch retro bathing suits made from recycled plastic bottles. 87 Wuyuan Lu, 86/(0) 21-6433-1789. Photo courtesy of Xinelu.
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Yunteng Binguan
Yunteng Binguan specializes in the cooking of the Yunnan province. The restaurant is hard to find, but their cheese is worth the hunt. It’s like a milk cake of fresh curd topped with fried Szechuan peppercorn. —Fuchsia Dunlop Photo by chrisjstanley/Flickr. Bldg. 7, Dong Hua Shi Bei Li, Dongcheng Qu, 86/(0) 10-6711- 3322. This appeared in the May 2013 issue.
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Yu-Gardens, 人民公园(北门), 931号 Jiu Jiang Lu, Huang Pu Qu, Shanghai, China
Yu Garden - This is the traditional Chinese garden, a very large garden. The feel is very zen. Again, I went there in pouring rain, but still very pretty. There are other major sights that you should go once in Shanghai: 1. The Cheng Huang Temple Eatery Street - This is where you find the best Steam Dumplings. If you are a foodie, this place will keep you very busy. I posted the picture of the street on my other trip highlight, and it is located on the way to the Yu Garden. 2. the Bund - I will say this is the heart of Shanghai where major banks are along the riverfront. It looks prettier at night when all the commercial lights are up. Once you are there, you want to take the under water cable car, which took you across the river. Once over the other side, you can check out the Oriental Pearl TV Tower Of Shanghai, which is a landmark of Shanghai. 3. The Shang Hai Gate (xin tian di) - Located in the center of Shanghai City south of Huaihai Zhong Lu. This is the area that utilized old historical buildings of shanghai to build fashion retail stores,bars, coffee shops and restaurants. Worth a walk for sure. 4. Fengjing old town - this old shanghai town is by the water, and far from the city center, I wanted to go there last time but ran out of time, so if you have extra time, it's a great place for photo.
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Tibet
In November 1951, Eric Shipton, Michael Ward, and Sen Tensing Sherpa crossed Dinjung La, a high pass between the Kingdom of Nepal and Chinese-occupied Tibet. While surveying the vast Menlung glacial basin along the central spine of the Rolwaling Himal, the mountaineers were awed by two peaks dominating the headwaters of the Menlung Chu. A 23,440-foot massif formed the south rim of the basin, known to the Nepalese as Gauri Sankar and to Tibetans as Jowo Tseringma. To the north, a sheer granite monolith—invisible from Nepal and previously unexplored by Westerners—towered over the crackling glacier. Shipton christened this 23,963-foot double peak “Menlung-tse,” unaware that the locals had already named it Jowo Garu, “Goddess of the Saddle,” about a millennium or so prior to his visit. Up ahead, I hear Karma’s loud call, and move quickly to where he stands frozen in the evening mist. High above the Khampa’s broad silhouette, above a dark shroud of dispersing clouds, the sun’s last kiss ignites Jowo Garu’s saddle. In that intoxicating moment, I can forgive Eric Shipton’s hubris, his desire to claim the Goddess as his own. She radiates like fire and ice, but her beauty belongs to a world where mortal men are not welcome.
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Sao Jose Road, Barra Point, Macau
People flock to Macau to gamble. There's nothing wrong with that, but it's a shame when time at the roulette wheel takes away from exploring what is otherwise a brilliant little colonial-era treasure. Macau's old cobbled streets are brimming with charm and throwback delights, and the restaurants outside of the casinos are a revelation - Hong Kong gets all the press, while Macau may indeed be China's coastal food marvel. Take a stroll through any of these old twisting alleyways and see what I mean.
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Beijing
As a tourist in Beijing a must see for me on the itinerary was the Forbidden City. Construction began in 1406 and lasted for 15 years with more than a million workers. The palace complex is 178 acres. Wear really good walking shoes when visiting! I was surprised to see the water canals throughout, I was unaware of this feature.
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Ruo Shui Tang Oil Paper Umbrella Workshop
“Our umbrellas are a part of our culture that is disappearing,” says Cheng Dehu, the owner of Beijing’s Ruo Shui Tang Oil Paper Umbrella Workshop. As China has modernized at a breakneck pace, most traditional oil paper umbrellas have been left behind. But Ruo Shui Tang artisans still turn them out using a century-old technique: they boil bamboo, carve the wood into collapsible frames and handles, and glue on translucent paper. Artists then paint landscapes or portraits on the paper, and waterproof it with tung tree oil. The whole process, which relies on the work of 30 people, produces umbrellas that can withstand being opened more than 2,000 times. Visit the studio to peruse or purchase umbrellas. From $30. 144 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District, 86/(0) 10-6406-4496. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo courtesy of Ruo Shui Tang Oil Paper Umbrella Workshop.
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Nanxiang
A mere two hours after we touched down in Shanghai, 13 hours after leaving Paris, our host had us on the move. "You'll be wrecked if you lay about the house. And you must be ravenous, no?". He was right. I spent the greater part of our flight over dreaming of billowy dumplings, salivating at the thought of Xiaolongbao, Shanghai's own steamed buns- thick and soup-filled. After a long, harried wait I got my first taste of Shanghai's delights at Nanxiang in the heart of tourist-swollen YuYuen Gardens. The commotion from the harried wait staff, clangorous dining room and joyous locals only served to heighten the moment. My tastebuds came alive from the very first, steaming bite of Xiaolongbao. I thanked our host profusefly for bringing us to the restaurant, despite the daunting throngs of people and our cloying fatigue, because it was then that I realized I was embarking on an unforgettable, edible adventure. {The nomenclature around Xiaolongbao is widely disputed - are they buns? Dumplings? What's the difference? The article below dives into their history and stirs the debate around culinary authenticity}.
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Ultraviolet
Celebrated French chef Paul Pairet describes his new 10-seat, single-table Ultraviolet as the first restaurant attempting to “unite food with multisensorial technologies in order to create a fully immersive dining experience.” You’re delivered by private driver to Ultraviolet’s secret location and then served 20 creative courses such as “foie gras can’t quit,” a delicate “cigarette” of foie gras encased in fruit-flavored skin and placed on a silver ashtray. Video projections, music, and custom aromas sprayed from a scent machine redefine ambience. 86/(0) 21-6142-5198. Image courtesy of Ultraviolet.
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Noodle Bar
One of my favorite moments in Beijing was sitting around the cozy circular bar at Noodle Bar for front-row action of the chef pulling our noodles by hand. The menu is simple and straightforward: all noodle soup with your choice of brisket, tendon or tripe beef (or the vegetarian version), which you check off from a paper menu attached to a clipboard. Laughably inexpensive, the meal was just the hearty fix we needed to once again brave the biting Beijing cold. Noodle Bar is a bit difficult to locate and taxis won't be much help. The 1949 Hidden City complex in which it is located sits directly behind the Pacific Century Place Mall. Once you've crossed the mall, you'll see an entrance to 1949. Once there, you must walk through an art gallery space to reach the courtyard and past Duck de Chine (also a must-try restaurant) to get to the bar. Well worth the trek!
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Forbidden City
There are way too many doors inside of the forbidden city. Sometimes, take a peek at the closed door and you might see the path leads to another door. Also, a good tour guide might tell you more stories associated with them.
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Xi'an Jiaotong University
11 April, 2012 - Jiaotong University - Xi'an, China. The Wutong trees (called "Parasol" or "Phoenix" trees in English) are just now getting their leaves. In a few more weeks the leaves will be as large as oak or maple leaves. Jiaotong University is also famous for its many beautiful flowering trees in mid-April and early May. Hungry for more Wutong photos? http://wp.me/p1CCHD-go
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Peking
After an aimless walk through the calm Hutongs in the centre of Beijing we suddenly came to a crowded night market. It was only one row of food stalls, but this row was a few hundred metres long! You can even buy grilled seahorse or scorpion.. Enjoy :) ---
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