There is a sliver of Africa where four countries almost converge: Zambia, Zimbabwe, Namibia and Botswana. The Chobe River is one of the many separation points between Botswana and Namibia and it’s also where I experienced one of my favorite wildlife adventures of all time. The boat I called home for a few days is permanently moored in the middle of a vast river system of wetlands and river grasses. The marshland is rich in wildlife; hippos, birds of all kinds, Cape Buffalo and hundreds of elephants converge on this one spot. The elephants were perhaps the most impressive, in size as well as sheer numbers. While boating along the river one day the driver shushed us, cut the engine and pointed to the riverbank. There on the shore were two young elephants walking with great purpose towards the water. I had never thought about whether or not elephants could swim , but I soon got my answer. They plunged into the river without fear and began to swim with zeal and power to the coveted river island. They also didn’t seem to care about us as they came within a few feet of our boat. Watching these majestic animals ford the river and then emerge with a great splash was extraordinary. It’s one of the travel moments that makes you feel both alive and incredibly thankful.

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Meerkats of the Kalahari
Just south of the Botswana border, in the Kuruman River Reserve, you’ll find meerkats so friendly they occasionally jump on volunteers’ heads. Visitors study the effects of the mammals’ cooperative breeding, in which adults help raise each other’s pups. You’ll learn how to weigh a meerkat and observe the intriguing interactions between the meerkat and the fork-tailed drongo, a bird that steals the meerkat’s food. At night, stargaze in the vast Kalahari skies before retreating to a thatched-roof hut. —Kellie Schmitt Meerkats of the Kalahari: $3,895 for a two-week trip, including meals and lodging. (800) 776-0188, earthwatch.org. Other Trips to Help Animals Whales in Costa Rica Snow leopards in Central Asia Orangutans in IndonesiaElephants in Thailand Horses in California Photo by thebuffafamily. This story appeared in the November/December 2011 issue.
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Maun
While traveling through Botswana, one may experience feelings of lightness, or even the sensation of floating through air. My ride down the Okavango Delta was no different. Which way is up? Who cares, I'm in another world.
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Little Mombo Camp
The ecotourism company Wilderness Safaris has been operating mobile camps in Botswana for 30 years. Today it runs 16 lodges in the Okavango Delta. Three private, parquet-floored tents at Little Mombo Camp feature outdoor showers and private decks that overlook the floodplains of the vast Moremi Game Reserve. You’ll see elephants—Botswana has more than any other country—as well as lions, leopards, and hyenas. Accommodations must be booked through a tour outfitter such as Travel Beyond. From $2,431. (800) 876-3131. This appeared in the June/July 2013 issue.
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Okavango Delta
Tour Okavango on a mokoro, the dugout canoes of the Bayei people, traditionally carved from jackalberry and sausage trees but now often made from fiberglass. Lodge guides paddle the boats (or pole them like Venetian gondoliers) past lechwe antelope, painted reed frogs, and flocks of purple herons. Most lodges offer mokoro trips between June and October. Photo by Athena Lao/Flickr.
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Abu Camp
The ecotourism company Wilderness Safaris has been operating mobile camps in Botswana for 30 years. Today it runs 16 lodges in the Okavango Delta. Located on the delta’s 700-square-mile Abu Concession, Abu Camp offers an unusual safari experience: to walk among a herd of rescued elephants, or even ride a mother or calf, as you observe the region’s game. Reserve the open-air “star bed” on an elevated platform next to the elephant enclosure. Accommodations must be booked through a tour outfitter such as Travel Beyond. From $2,431. (800) 876-3131. Photo courtesy of Abu Camp. This appeared in the June/July 2013 issue.
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Okavango Delta
Botswana’s most famous crafts are baskets woven from fan palm fibers. They are dyed with natural pigments: blue from fever-berry leaves, dark brown from magic guarri shrubs, and yellow from the roots of red star apple trees. Some baskets take a month to make. Nearly all lodges sell baskets, but you can also purchase them online.
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Okavango Delta
An experience of a lifetime and one not to be missed when traveling in Botswana's famous Okavango Delta, hiring a poler and cruising its still waters in a traditional wooden mokoro was a definite highlight of the year we spent living in-country. Raw beauty, appearing to be barely touched by human hands, and the sky reflecting in the clear waters makes this sanctuary surrounded by the dry, dusty heat that is Maun feel like an oasis. Stay at Maun Lodge outside of the Delta to save some money and ask the staff to guide you to a local poler--you'll be forever glad you did.
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Chobe National Park
it is true that a safari could be a "once in a lifetime" journey, but you will certainly hope not once you have visited the "wildlife" at home in their environment. it is hard to describe the majesty of a herd of elephants or the size of the hippos in a pod in the river or hundreds of cape buffalo headed your way. zebras, hyenas, lions, leopards and cheetahs... OH MY! these moments can overwhelm you with their beauty and bring you to tears. but there are also moments like the one pictured above that just plain make you laugh. we were on the river near a large herd of elephants - mostly a breeding herd but we also came across this bull at just the moment of "relief" - he released a number of gallons into the river and clearly this gave him some pleasure as his eyes rolled back into his head... timing is everything!
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Chobe National Park
You don’t have to be in a large city to enjoy a once-in-a-lifetime happy hour experience. Sometimes all it takes is a nice glass of wine and impossibly beautiful surroundings. One such place is aboard the Zambezi Queen, a luxury riverboat moored on the Chobe River in Namibia. The river divides Namibia and Botswana and in the middle of the famous river is a rich diversity of wildlife including hippos, elephants and Cape buffalo. There’s nothing quite like sitting on the back of a boat, watching the sun slowly sink below the horizon as the sounds of hippos grunting at each other echo off the river banks. As darkness finally overtook us I raised my glass to the grumpy hippos and thanked them for a memory that I know will last a lifetime.
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Botswana
We finally found a leopard, who was moving around and ultimately jumped into the tree above us to take a nap. What a gorgeous animal.
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Kalahari Desert
Spend the morning walking with Zu/’hoasi Bushmen trackers. Uncharted Africa Safari Co. has pioneered and passionately supported cultural tourism in Botswana since the company’s inception 13 years ago. It has long been their belief that it is a vitally important tool in terms of preserving this unique, but sadly fast-vanishing, culture. Jack's Camp has been working closely with the Zu/’hoasi people of the Western Kalahari for many years and guests are privileged to meet this group of extraordinary men and women who to guide guests on a morning and afternoon walking safari. Offering a window into the past, they teach you how they have survived in this harshest of environments, using their vast and ancient knowledge of plants, animal behaviour and survival skills.
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Okavango Delta
Uncharted Africa Safari Co. provides guests with the opportunity to do a mobile safari expedition on the Okavango Delta. This 5 day mobile safari allows you to stay in mobile tented camps in different locations within the Moremi Game Reserve, as well as boating out on the delta. For a few nights, we stayed on an island in the delta in just mosquito net tents. During the day the boat takes you to view game along waters including an incredible bird sanctuary and up close encounters will crocs!
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Okavango Delta
This 'Henrietta' was not too keen on our open air safari vehicle being so close but I got a few good shots before we moved on in the early morn... Don't be fooled, I wasn't THAT close! When on safari you want to appreciate all that is around you but also if you're serious about getting good shots, bring a good camera! I was able to get this hippo rising out of the water with a long lens and a very steady hand.
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Okavango Delta
Before I was enveloped in the cocoon-like, eco-conscious luxury at Abu Camp in the Okavango Delta, I was loathe to ride up high on an elephant's back (the camp's USP). An elephant-back safari seemed like a throw back to colonialism, a flashback to a less aware, less conscious time. What an eye-opening, heartwarming experience it turned out to be, on so many levels. Imagine feeling, rather than hearing, the vibrating rumblings that elephants make to communicate. As we moved effortlessly through the waterways of the Delta the babies walked alongside their mothers, stopping from time to time to suckle. What a privilege to get so close to a herd of elephant for a few days - educational and inspirational.
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Edo's Camp
Sundowners were spent under a large tree with a glass of wine in my hand watching rhinos come in to wallow in the small stream in front of our camp.
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Okavango Delta
I've never seen more beautiful sunsets than on a recent trip to the Okavango Delta area of Botswana. Due to the sand and dirt that is in the air naturally, the sunset glow an amazing red color. The sun setting against the horizon, which also includes some interesting tree formations make for beautiful setting sun each early evening.
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Okavango Delta
Game drive safaris are only a small part of the dream-come-true travel experience at Abu Camp in Botswana. The real highlight is the daily interaction with the Abu herd, a group of elephants who have been rescued from bad circumstances and/or born into the herd by their rescued mothers (who mate with wild elephants; the elephants here are not caged, and are free to leave any time). The most famous elephant here is Paseka, who I was luckily enough to get to know (and hug). One day, the camp's rangers were out on a game drive, when they witnessed an orphaned baby elephant being attacked by hyenas. Covered in injuries, the baby ran alongside their vehicle, hoping to find protection. As both lovers of elephants and advocates of letting nature do what it must, they were torn. They wanted to help but were hesitant to intervene, and made the difficult decision to leave the scene, and hope that the young elephant would survive. The next morning, Easter Sunday, they went to their generator room, only to find her, scared and shaken but alive, waiting to be found. Apparently she had followed the truck back to camp and sought shelter inside the small room, somehow aware that Abu Camp offered a safe haven for elephants just like her. They named her Paseka, meaning Easter, and the elephant herders, and the elephants themselves, adopted her. I learned so much about nature and beauty from my trip to Botswana, but I think the biggest lesson learned was from an elephant.
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Chobe National Park
While on a game drive in Chobe National Park, we came upon a herd of elephants. They were on the move and were slowly marching forward. Our guide drove ahead of them and stopped the jeep and turned it off. We sat there in nervous silence as the elephants walked towards us and then carefully navigated around our parked vehicle. I captured this image of one as she walked past us.
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Makgadikgadi Pans
Spent the morning visiting the habituated meerkats near Camp Kalahari. The little guys are extremely interactive, and depending on their mood and hunger levels first thing in the morning, they'll hang out for quite a while and maybe even use your head as a look-out tower. Only some meerkat families are habituated, so make sure the camp you are visiting has access to a habituated family if you want to get an up-close look.
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Chobe Enclave
My previous sightings of Leopards had always been from afar (pun intended) but this was my first up close encounter. With her kill right above her, this female leopard was taking some much needed relief from the hot sun with her 2-week old cubs hidden close by. Not wanting to distress her or the cubs we spent a few minutes watching her then moved on.
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Mashatu Game Reserve
I was blown away at the beauty and the diversity of the wildlife viewing opportunities while leading trips in South Africa and Botswana in the summer and early fall of 2011. There is a special place in my heart for the staff and the rangers at the authentic and magnificent Mashatu Game Reserve in Botswana. The chance to view the big cats up close (as in a few feet away) is a mind blowing experience in awe.
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Sandibe Safari Lodge
The beauty of Sandibe Okavango Lodge is such that I didn't feel worthy to even be there. Pure African luxury from the design of the bungalows to the open-air main lodge where we took our meals and rest times. The abundance of wildlife in this particular spot in the Okavango Delta is well known and I was not disappointed! With a passionate guide who grew up in the region and a tracker that didn't miss a thing, our little group was treated to an extraordinary experience, a leopard sighting. Now bear in mind this is a very rare sighting as leopards are super private cats. Some can go on safari for years and never see one! As we gazed up into the tree, some thirty feet above us, we watched this beautiful predator snooze the hours away as top cat of her domain. A little while later she let out the big yawn, a tell saying 'it is time to wake, time to hunt, time to own this joint'. Stretching once and circling down the tree she silently disappeared into the night.
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Zambezi Queen
A water-based African safari provides an entirely different experience from a land-based safari, and you can't get any more water-based (or any more luxurious) than a cruise through Namibia and Botswana on the Zambezi Queen. Floating slowly down the Chobe river, past banks lined with hundreds of elephants, hippos, water buffalo and crocodiles, watching the sunset while sipping a sundowner, is simply divine. The ship carries along smaller boats to explore the shoreline, go fishing for tigerfish, etc., and a highlight of the cruise was an amazing feast put on for us by local villagers on a small island, by a roaring fire under the star-filled sky... The Zambezi Queen is a 150 foot river boat with a maximum of 28 passengers and an amazingly warm and gracious staff - this is truly an experience not to miss; relaxing, peaceful, exciting, awe-inspiring and spiritual all in one...
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Makgadikgadi Pans
Quad biking in the Makgadikgadi Pans in Botswana is available from the Uncharted Africa camps - Jack's Camp, San Camp and Camp Kalahari. I stayed at Camp Kalahari (the most affordable of the three) and really enjoyed it's simplicity and charm. Fly into Maun and book a scheduled flight or a charter to the camps. Quad biking is seasonal and cannot be guaranteed.
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Chobe National Park
Chobe in November is full of all the African animals you hope to see. Many are grazing with their babies. Safari by land and boat.
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Kalahari Desert - Botswana
I've been to many deserts around the world, but one of my favorites is the Kalahari Desert, which extends about 350,000 square miles and covers much of Botswana. Part of the reason is because the Kalahari is really a savannah that supports a lot of plant and wildlife in addition to people. After driving through Windhoek, the capital of Namibia, we crossed the border into Botswana. A few hours later, we were surrounded by the semi-arid-semi-lush scenery as far as the eye could see. We soon arrived at the community of Ghanzi - Bushman territory. Our rest stop for the night was a domed straw hut that looked like a beehive (unfortunately, AFAR only allows for one image per story). The Bushmen who lived in the area warmly greeted us and took us on a short walking tour through their habitat. As we wandered along, we learned how this diminishing population foraged, hunted, cooked and utilized the land for everything required for living. The lifestyle of the Bushmen is truly fascinating, but I was especially enthralled by two particular members of the tribe - this beautiful woman and her baby, both of whom fit so perfectly and naturally together in their environment.
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