While in Ghana, I visited an unofficial IDP (internally displaced person) camp. Seeing the poverty firsthand was akin to a cold stream of water splashing over my body. This was a group of people who have fled their homes because of ethnic conflict. Materially speaking, they have NOTHING. While in the camp, we sang and danced with a large group of kiddos, distributed school supplies, and spoke with the camp leaders. I can’t help but smile at the memory. As I stood listening to the leaders, I felt a small tug on my skirt. It was followed by a giggle. A group of kiddos had gathered and put their hands up to their faces—signaling that they wanted their photo taken. I turned to take a quick shot, and once again children swarmed. Many were clutching their new pencils and markers in their hands, waving them proudly. Their GRATITUDE and JOY is something I will not soon forget.

What I loved about the fishing boat launch area just north of the Cape Coast Castle, and most of Ghana for that matter, was the lack of tourist infrastructure. There was no paid admission to watch the fishermen prepare their green fishing nets and colorful boats, no vendors hawking water and postcards and no hordes of pasty Americans and Germans wearing Teva’s on their glowing white feet and camera’s around their plump necks. We had to squeeze between buildings to catch a glimpse of the Cape Coast fishermen prepare for another ‘day at the office.’

by Jocelyn C. Zuckerman Proceeds from Global Mamas’ merchandise go back to the local women who make the items. Choose from straw-and-bead figurines; batik dresses, pictured above; and tote bags fashioned from recycled candy wrappers. Global Mamas.14th Lane, behind the Koala grocery store, Osu, 233/(0) 24-453-0467. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo by Dani Vernon.    

While standing at the top of Elmina Castle, the view is majestic. It is easy to become enraptured in the beauty—the sound of the waves, the smell of the ocean. Forgetting the fact that you are standing on top of building that epitomizes the depravity of man. It is even easier to not see what is currently happening. At first glance, it looks like dozens of men going about their work. Then you realize that the “men” are not small simply because they are at such a distance, but they appear child-sized because they are in fact children. As a costal State, fisheries are extremely popular in Ghana. Because of their vulnerability due to poverty or homelessness, the very street children that we came to help are often sold to work in the fisheries (also textiles, prostitution, etc.). I KNOW modern day slavery. I know the statistics and the stories. But for the first time, I SAW the eyes of the ones who were not rescued. From a monument of what we have overcome, I was quickly brought back to the reality that there is still so much more to be done.

There are two big stars in Ghana, West Africa: God and Obama. You'll see the two of them referenced everywhere. In the street market in Cape Coast, Ghana I found a packet of Obama Biscuits (cookies). Never actually ate them, they sit on my book shelf here at home in New York City.

The Center for National Arts and Culture, better known as Arts Center, is located next to the Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum, off the High Street in Accra, in the southern part of the city right along the Gulf of Guinea. All sorts of handicrafts imaginable can be found here from woodcarvings, traditional musical instruments, leather ware, gold, silver and bronze jewelry, traditional clothing, beads, clay products, weaved goods, antiques, paintings, and more. These items come from all over Ghana, with some coming from beyond the countries borders. You’ll need to haggle or pay a high price. You’re sure to get many in the market trying to entice you into their stalls so be polite but stern if you’re not looking for their wares. Shop around and be smart. We meet a couple of drum makers who we hung out with for a couple of days. We had a great time learning about Ghana, telling them about New York City, drinking local libation in a pretty dodgy part of a shantytown while watching some decent barefoot football (soccer) and playing drums into the night. Always felt on the edge of danger but never met any. Great memories and we left with djembe drums and a few crafts.

Fufu is a staple food of West Africa and originated from Ghana. It is made by pounding boiled cassava, yams or plantains into a dough-like consistency. Men mostly do the pounding because it requires a lot of physical strength. Fufu is usually eaten with a light soup or groundnut or palm nut sauce. I tried fufu and it was pretty starchy and like nothing I've tasted before. It may be an acquired taste.

A trip to the Malata Market in Accra is worth your while on so many levels. You get to see how the locals shop in this non-touristy place of culinary commerce, you get to eat some authentic Ghanian fare (if you dare) and you inevitable meet a bunch of super curious, super cute kids. The Banana Boy was not shy of our lens and flashed us his pearly whites without us asking.

One of the highlights of my trip to Ghana was the Kakum Canopy Walk. We got there very early in the morning, when the birds were out and the hoards of tourists and school groups were not. We pretty much had the place to ourselves. Take a pair of binoculars to see colorful species like barbets, sunbirds and orioles.

My favorite ways to experience a new place are through food and music. Jazz can be heard all over the world, but at the +233 Jazz Club and Grill I was excited to be exposed to Ghanaian Highlife by a talented group of young musicians. Horns and guitar dominate Highlife, which emerged from Ghana in the 20th century. +233 Jazz Club & Grill is an easy, enjoyable place to spend an evening among locals, expats and tourists alike in an outdoor setting. Thursday night was full, so if you go on a weekend night, be ready to stand up with your drinks. Food is offered, but its not the reason to come here. It's all about the great jazz and the friendly atmosphere. The club is in North Ridge, near the Ghana Broadcast Company off Ring Road. You can find them on Facebook too.

Some dispute that okra originates from West Africa but there’s no denying that the word okra is of Western African origin. Okra soup and banku is a traditional recipe from western Africa and is most popular in Ghana. Banku is made from partially-fermented ground maize and grated Cassava. We met the Okra Lady in Mallam Atta market (also known as Malata market). If you want a true local market experience, you’ll find it here. In the three hours we were there we didn’t see any other tourist and you won’t find African masks or other tourist handcrafts at this market.

I bet you didn’t know President Obama ran a restaurant in Ghana! No, this is not another Birther claim and it's not the leader of the free world's restaurant. If President Obama received residuals from all the uses of his name in Ghana, he'd have more money than Mitt Romney.

There is no shortage of unusual sights at the Malata Market in central Accra; unusual at least to my western eyes. My first thought on seeing these two piles of pig feet was a group of pigs, each with four prosthetic legs, but then I quickly realized the Ghanaians eat the whole animal. I'm sure our pigs feet end up in hotdogs or cat food, but these hooves will most likely end up in a traditional Ghanaian Pigs Feet Stew.

In any city that I travel to the market is always a favorite place to go. You can really feel the pulse of life and culture in the market. Amongst the most famous markets of Accra is the central Makola Market, located on Kojo Thompson road. I went there while volunteering at Camp Amelia's science and technology educational program. I stayed with a native Ghanaian friend who took me to the market. The streets were busy with buses and motorcycles zooming by the hustle and bustle of shoppers. What struck me about Africa was how colorful it was. The architecture and bright buildings of Accra, Ghana stood out as novel and unique, the fluorescent and purple colors of the paint: Life happening all around you. The market was a window into the heart and spirit of Accra. I got on the bus as I was leaving and couldn't pass up this amazing picture that captured what I felt: That life was happening at different corners of the market, each a story.

One of the most popular destinations in Accra, the capital city of Ghana, is the Labadi Beach Hotel. It boasts a gourmet restaurant, stunning views, 5-star service and a central location. As a jumping-off point for your exploration of the wonders of Accra, Labadi Beach is unrivaled. After a late night and, perhaps, an early morning flight from Lagos, you will be comforted by the calming surrounds of the lush lobby.

by Jocelyn C. Zuckerman Greet a Ghanaian with the word ayeeko (“eye-yeh-koo”) and you’ll earn instant street credibility. Translated as “well done” and “congratulations” and used as a salutation, the word—also spelled ayekoo and ayikoo— comes from the Twi dialect of the Akan language. Twi is the most widely spoken language in Ghana. Illustration by Ken D’Amato. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. 

by Jocelyn C. Zuckerman Afia Beach Hotel’s 29 bungalows sit along the shore beneath arching palm trees. Snack on swordfish with fried plantains at the restaurant, and purchase handmade mudcloth and appliqué fabrics at the gift shop. Afia Beach Hotel. From $85 for an ocean-view double. Liberia Road, 233/(0) 30-268-1465. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue. Photo by Antonella d’Amico.

While walking to the main road in Labone on your way to Accra's compelling oceanfront, stop and have a fresh coconut. Choose your favorite, have the guy slice it open for you, drink it up; ask him to chop it open for you and then savor the fresh, tender meat as you continue on your way. An experience to live for, this.

Far away from the tourists in the south, you'll find a beautiful stretch of country in the Brong-Ahafo region. Tucked away down a tiny dirt road, is the village of Hani. In Hani, you can take a tour to the Sacred Hole - a hidden little oasis deep in the bush. A 45 minute walk through cashew farms and grassy fields, will bring you to this ancient archaeological site. The people of Hani and Begho are said to have emerged from a hole in the ground over 1000 years ago. Begho grew to be a large city, archaeologists have discovered 77 streets lining this ancient town. A trip to Hani is a refreshing change of pace from the hawking street sellers and overpriced hotels in Accra. Adventure out and discover a different side of Ghana.